374
Index
Philips parameter 126, 135
Pierson-Moskowitz 151
approximations 128
spectrum 128, 166, 342
Poisson brackets 27
potential 12
predictor-corrector method 75, 146
probabilistic methods 4
propagation 6, 14, 18, 22, 35, 39, 43,
44,47,53, 156,167,175,185,202,
253,277,291,317
quasi-oscillations 137
radiation stress 3
random
distribution 128
fluctuations 13
functions 2
process 2,23,24,137,139,152
ray 15,17,156,176,192,223,294
Rayleigh equation 226
Rayleigh's wave propagation 35
reflection
coefficient 340, 344
of waves 171, 203
refraction (of waves) 34, 155, 253, 258,
285,293,298
remote sensing 209
resonance 341
Riemann metrics 37
rips 164, 174, 175, 183
rogue waves (see also abnormal waves,
exceptional waves, freak waves,
and cape roller) 217
root mean square error (RMSE) 71
rotation vector 11
roughness parameter 126
Runge-Kutta method 223, 296
scale
global 33
local 34
regional 33, 34
small 34
scattering 285
Schrodinger equation 216
seiche oscillations 261
self-similar asymptotic solution 120
semi-implicit
method 107
scheme 67
SMIWEH 141
soliton 166, 175
source function (source term) 28, 52,
65,67,68,78,81,127,132,134,
142,149,153,166,241,247,254,
317
Southern Ocean 44, 4 7
spatial
distribution function 52
non-uniformity 9
spectral density 298
function 128
spectral shape approximation
Banner 94, 99
Davidan 130
Donelan 93, 99
equilibrium (range) area 131
JONSWAP 176
theory 4
TMA 307
spectrum 3, 52, 160, 208
approximation 99,242
energy 168
evolution of wave spectrum 139,
156,171,180,262
frequency 129,130,258
frequency- (directional) angular
176,254,262,303,309,320
JONSWAP 106, 263, 307
TMA 307
wave 51,60,131,153,161
splitting method 73
statistical movements 24
storms 1
stress 286
surface gravity waves 6, 154
surface resistance coefficient 124
SWAMP 7, 8, 51
SWAN 8, 267,313
swell 129, 136, 164, 193, 204, 215
propagation (see also propagation)
39,44,50,52,59,78,223
three-wave interaction 267
transfer function 306, 323
transformation 34, 155, 177, 183,237
Index
Philips parameter 126, 135
Pierson-Moskowitz 151
approximations 128
spectrum 128, 166, 342
Poisson brackets 27
potential 12
predictor-corrector method 75, 146
probabilistic methods 4
propagation 6, 14, 18, 22, 35, 39, 43,
44,47,53, 156,167,175,185,202,
253,277,291,317
quasi-oscillations 137
radiation stress 3
random
distribution 128
fluctuations 13
functions 2
process 2,23,24,137,139,152
ray 15,17,156,176,192,223,294
Rayleigh equation 226
Rayleigh's wave propagation 35
reflection
coefficient 340, 344
of waves 171, 203
refraction (of waves) 34, 155, 253, 258,
285,293,298
remote sensing 209
resonance 341
Riemann metrics 37
rips 164, 174, 175, 183
rogue waves (see also abnormal waves,
exceptional waves, freak waves,
and cape roller) 217
root mean square error (RMSE) 71
rotation vector 11
roughness parameter 126
Runge-Kutta method 223, 296
scale
global 33
local 34
regional 33, 34
small 34
scattering 285
Schrodinger equation 216
seiche oscillations 261
self-similar asymptotic solution 120
semi-implicit
method 107
scheme 67
SMIWEH 141
soliton 166, 175
source function (source term) 28, 52,
65,67,68,78,81,127,132,134,
142,149,153,166,241,247,254,
317
Southern Ocean 44, 4 7
spatial
distribution function 52
non-uniformity 9
spectral density 298
function 128
spectral shape approximation
Banner 94, 99
Davidan 130
Donelan 93, 99
equilibrium (range) area 131
JONSWAP 176
theory 4
TMA 307
spectrum 3, 52, 160, 208
approximation 99,242
energy 168
evolution of wave spectrum 139,
156,171,180,262
frequency 129,130,258
frequency- (directional) angular
176,254,262,303,309,320
JONSWAP 106, 263, 307
TMA 307
wave 51,60,131,153,161
splitting method 73
statistical movements 24
storms 1
stress 286
surface gravity waves 6, 154
surface resistance coefficient 124
SWAMP 7, 8, 51
SWAN 8, 267,313
swell 129, 136, 164, 193, 204, 215
propagation (see also propagation)
39,44,50,52,59,78,223
three-wave interaction 267
transfer function 306, 323
transformation 34, 155, 177, 183,237