Hamiltonian function 16, 18, 26, 27,
29,325,326
Hasselmann equation 105
Hasselmann model 128
Heaviside function 40, 86, 162, 169,
203,275,321
Helmholtz equation 191, 194
ice
cake 6,316,332
field 6, 335
floe 6,335,340,342
marginal ice zone (MIZ) 335
scattering of waves 6
implicit
form 241
integration scheme 68
Indian Ocean 218, 220
inertia force 11
interaction
coefficients 267
integral 104
INTERPOL (interpolation-ray method)
59,60,62, 79
Jacobi weight functions 87
Jacobian 31, 154, 160, 195
JONSWAP 4, 90, 92, 94, 102, 126, 144,
151,243,289,333
kinematic
coefficient of viscosity 12
condition 178, 211, 254, 27 4
equation 15, 25, 33, 56, 138, 155,
185,192,237,261,266,285
kinetic equation 54, 319, 331
Kolmogorov spectrum 123, 132, 176
Lagrange function 17
Laplace's equation 13, 315, 328, 335
Liouville's theorem (and conservation
of wave action) 31, 154
local problem formulation 39
local sinusoidal waves 15
logarithmic boundary layer 12
mass acceleration 11
mathematical simulation 35
Miles' model 123, 132
Index
373
Miles' theory (of wave generation) 3,
139,140
MIZEX experiment 335
momentum 16, 126, 286
monochromatic wave 15, 160, 187,
196,214,268,277,286
Monte Carlo method 140
motion equation 31
Navier-Stokes equation 134
NEDWAM 39
non-linear (wave-wave) interactions:
see non-linear energy transfer 5,
7,261,265,266,291
non-linear effect 254, 285
non-linear energy transfer (between
waves) 3,6, 7, 75,132,134,144,
146,149,166,173,180,261,317,
333
non-uniform current 3, 7, 14, 18, 22,
23,33, 153,156,161,166,173,175,
183,188,193,198,209,210,212,
228,236,249,268,271,277,284,
293,302,317
non-uniform media 14, 199, 253
non-uniform ocean 11
non-uniformity 14, 56, 138, 144, 155,
209,274,293
North Atlantic 49
North Sea 52, 56, 60, 308
Norwegian Sea 60
numerical
algorithm
diffusion
grid 60
58, 107
61
implementation 49, 50, 58, 74, 294
modelling 6
simulation 25, 224, 299, 301, 335,
340,343
Onega Bay 164
optimal algorithm non-linear energy
transfer computation 85
Pacific Ocean 40, 43, 44
peakness 90,94, 144,149,151
penetrability coefficient 290
phase space 26
phase velocity 256
Philips constant 276
29,325,326
Hasselmann equation 105
Hasselmann model 128
Heaviside function 40, 86, 162, 169,
203,275,321
Helmholtz equation 191, 194
ice
cake 6,316,332
field 6, 335
floe 6,335,340,342
marginal ice zone (MIZ) 335
scattering of waves 6
implicit
form 241
integration scheme 68
Indian Ocean 218, 220
inertia force 11
interaction
coefficients 267
integral 104
INTERPOL (interpolation-ray method)
59,60,62, 79
Jacobi weight functions 87
Jacobian 31, 154, 160, 195
JONSWAP 4, 90, 92, 94, 102, 126, 144,
151,243,289,333
kinematic
coefficient of viscosity 12
condition 178, 211, 254, 27 4
equation 15, 25, 33, 56, 138, 155,
185,192,237,261,266,285
kinetic equation 54, 319, 331
Kolmogorov spectrum 123, 132, 176
Lagrange function 17
Laplace's equation 13, 315, 328, 335
Liouville's theorem (and conservation
of wave action) 31, 154
local problem formulation 39
local sinusoidal waves 15
logarithmic boundary layer 12
mass acceleration 11
mathematical simulation 35
Miles' model 123, 132
Index
373
Miles' theory (of wave generation) 3,
139,140
MIZEX experiment 335
momentum 16, 126, 286
monochromatic wave 15, 160, 187,
196,214,268,277,286
Monte Carlo method 140
motion equation 31
Navier-Stokes equation 134
NEDWAM 39
non-linear (wave-wave) interactions:
see non-linear energy transfer 5,
7,261,265,266,291
non-linear effect 254, 285
non-linear energy transfer (between
waves) 3,6, 7, 75,132,134,144,
146,149,166,173,180,261,317,
333
non-uniform current 3, 7, 14, 18, 22,
23,33, 153,156,161,166,173,175,
183,188,193,198,209,210,212,
228,236,249,268,271,277,284,
293,302,317
non-uniform media 14, 199, 253
non-uniform ocean 11
non-uniformity 14, 56, 138, 144, 155,
209,274,293
North Atlantic 49
North Sea 52, 56, 60, 308
Norwegian Sea 60
numerical
algorithm
diffusion
grid 60
58, 107
61
implementation 49, 50, 58, 74, 294
modelling 6
simulation 25, 224, 299, 301, 335,
340,343
Onega Bay 164
optimal algorithm non-linear energy
transfer computation 85
Pacific Ocean 40, 43, 44
peakness 90,94, 144,149,151
penetrability coefficient 290
phase space 26
phase velocity 256
Philips constant 276