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Wind-waves in oceans : dynamics and numerical simulations
- Date_TXT
- Berlin : Springer , 2010
- Cote
- 551.463 LAV
- Auteur
- Lavrenov, Igor V
- Type de document
- Livre
Description :
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's attention. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to-date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas.
The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
The importance of mathematical wind wave modelling as a random hydrodynamic process with a wide range of spatial-temporal variability at different scales is due to the stricter requirements for detailing, completeness and reliability of wave characteristic data. This is necessary for improving wave forecasting, elaborating principally new ocean diagnostic methods and means, and expanding areas of resource exploration of the world's oceans and their shelves. It is also important for an increasing number of tasks concerning special hydrometeorological (weather) services for marine and oceanic operations.
The essence of mathematical wind wave modelling in the ocean in conditions of spatial non-uniformity, taking into account currents, uneven bottoms and ice influencing the generation, evolution and propagation of wind waves, • is presented in this monograph. Considerable attention has been given to this problem during the last few years, but the methodical presentation of the modern theory is undertaken here for the first time.