transparency window 132
transport equation
transfer equation 25
turbulence 12, 132
uneven
bottom 291
depth 268
seabed 7
velocity
current 153
dynamic 131
friction 123, 139
group 56
orbit 286
phase 93
potential 12, 341
propagation 55
viscosity 12, 287
coefficient 290, 318
von Karman constant 124
vorticity: see irrotational motion 12,
227
WAM model 6, 8, 50-53,56,62,66, 79,
104,126,140
WAMDI 7,8
water density 316
wave action 3, 30-32, 82, 86, 123, 132,
153,154,166,176,193,195,199,
218,237,266,268,294
age 56
amplitude 14, 193
blocking 270, 282
breaking 127, 135, 140, 161, 168,
179,189,206,208,254,257,277,
309
crest 219
crest collapse 3
density 21, 25
development 181,245,248
diffraction 190
dissipation/ attenuation 144, 152,
166
element 2, 5, 189, 210, 234, 243, 248,
277,296,301
evolution 3, 5, 156, 17 4, 185, 188,
225,258,277
Index
375
field 137, 166, 193, 206, 209, 214,
268,288,292
forecast 8
generation/growth 3, 11, 13, 225,
237,247
group 136,167,238,242
height 1, 42, 43, 52, 61, 62, 183, 186,
212,219,224,234,236,245,258,
266,276,302
interaction 3, 7, 49, 175, 218, 236,
237,247,261,285,343
length 14, 126, 184, 189, 215, 226,
245,247,276,291,302,341
number 32,33,46, 185,191,199,
208,214,216,228,231,236,243,
253,256,266,269,285,293,296,
305,307
packet 3, 16, 17,30,33,36,37,39,
45,51,132, 153,158,177,194,198,
214,232,235,253,272
period 1, 58, 136, 187,246,247, 257,
266,276,300
prediction 2
profile 259
propagation 14, 56, 60, 62, 153, 158,
171,175,176,191,199,227,235,
240,253,260,266,270,276,279,
292,300,309,319
reflection 210, 259
scattering 6, 291, 335
spectrum: see spectrum 4, 5, 152,
157,166,169,171,175,178,208,
224,255,266,274,284,285,298,
317,335,342
steepness 191
system 206, 208, 220
transformation 164, 189, 198, 225,
230,247,253,261,268,281,294,
299,302
vector 14,16-18,21,185,199,253,
292
wave number 316
wave packet 317
wave vector 320
wave-wave interaction (see also
non-linear energy transfer) 3,
324
waves 217
WAVEWATCH 8
transport equation
transfer equation 25
turbulence 12, 132
uneven
bottom 291
depth 268
seabed 7
velocity
current 153
dynamic 131
friction 123, 139
group 56
orbit 286
phase 93
potential 12, 341
propagation 55
viscosity 12, 287
coefficient 290, 318
von Karman constant 124
vorticity: see irrotational motion 12,
227
WAM model 6, 8, 50-53,56,62,66, 79,
104,126,140
WAMDI 7,8
water density 316
wave action 3, 30-32, 82, 86, 123, 132,
153,154,166,176,193,195,199,
218,237,266,268,294
age 56
amplitude 14, 193
blocking 270, 282
breaking 127, 135, 140, 161, 168,
179,189,206,208,254,257,277,
309
crest 219
crest collapse 3
density 21, 25
development 181,245,248
diffraction 190
dissipation/ attenuation 144, 152,
166
element 2, 5, 189, 210, 234, 243, 248,
277,296,301
evolution 3, 5, 156, 17 4, 185, 188,
225,258,277
Index
375
field 137, 166, 193, 206, 209, 214,
268,288,292
forecast 8
generation/growth 3, 11, 13, 225,
237,247
group 136,167,238,242
height 1, 42, 43, 52, 61, 62, 183, 186,
212,219,224,234,236,245,258,
266,276,302
interaction 3, 7, 49, 175, 218, 236,
237,247,261,285,343
length 14, 126, 184, 189, 215, 226,
245,247,276,291,302,341
number 32,33,46, 185,191,199,
208,214,216,228,231,236,243,
253,256,266,269,285,293,296,
305,307
packet 3, 16, 17,30,33,36,37,39,
45,51,132, 153,158,177,194,198,
214,232,235,253,272
period 1, 58, 136, 187,246,247, 257,
266,276,300
prediction 2
profile 259
propagation 14, 56, 60, 62, 153, 158,
171,175,176,191,199,227,235,
240,253,260,266,270,276,279,
292,300,309,319
reflection 210, 259
scattering 6, 291, 335
spectrum: see spectrum 4, 5, 152,
157,166,169,171,175,178,208,
224,255,266,274,284,285,298,
317,335,342
steepness 191
system 206, 208, 220
transformation 164, 189, 198, 225,
230,247,253,261,268,281,294,
299,302
vector 14,16-18,21,185,199,253,
292
wave number 316
wave packet 317
wave vector 320
wave-wave interaction (see also
non-linear energy transfer) 3,
324
waves 217
WAVEWATCH 8