304
6 Wave Transformation in Shallow Water
3.5
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0 .0
h3%
__...,.
~
,- ·"- ;.:;.- _.,...
/
/ _..
. •
~__;.-.:: .........:!" ---~
_.._.... ._;;..-><.
..... .....
11
13
15
17
19
21
23
3
2 .12
3.12
h3%
~~
e
' I
~
""' JF"""""'
~
11
13
15
17
19 21
23
3
2.12
3.12
-+-18m
• - 11m
4.5m
__,._ 4.2m
.......... 3.8m
hours
-+-3.4m
3 .2m
---2 .9m
-~- 2 . 6m
---1 .6m
-+-1 .3m
hours
Fig. 6.23. Wave height (3 per cent probability) time variation at points with
different depth
8.0
7.5
7.0
6.5
6.0
5.5
5.0
4.5
4.0
8.0
7.5
7.0
6.5
6.0
5.5
5.0
4.5
4.0
T, s
11
13
15
17
19
21
23
3
2.12
3.12
T, s
X
~~~
~ A/ '-.a<
'¥"\.\:
~~
'i
11
13
15
17
19
21
23
1
3
2.12
3.12
.....,_18m
-+-11m
- - 4.5m
_,._ 4.2m
_.,_ 3.8m
hours
-+-3.4m
- - 3.2m
......... 2.9m
-M- 2.6m
_.,_ 1.3m
hours
Fig. 6 .24. Wave period time variations