6.5 Numerical Model of Wind Wave Transformation in a Coastal Area
299
Fig. 6.18. Isolines of spectral density values due to wave refraction for natural (a)
and modelled (b) depths
Consequently, as the waves propagate from deep to shallow water, a filtration of spectral components takes place, caused by the influence of depth.
Long-wave components are deviated to the small depth values, whereas the
short-wave components penetrate to the calculated point area without any
essential changes.
As shown by this example the transformation of the spectrum and mean
wave elements can be principally different in field conditions from the wave
evolution case with straight isobaths, which is accepted to be a typical one.
Wave estimation in a coastal area with current. Now another example of wave wind transformation in a coastal area with current velocities
greater than 1.0 ms- 1 will be considered. This situation takes place at the
shelf of Sakhalin Island.
The rectangular coordinate system Oxy is chosen for numerical simulation
of the wave transformation (see Fig. 6.19). Its vertical Oy axis is directed
along the meridian, and the horizontal Ox axis is chosen along the parallel
299
Fig. 6.18. Isolines of spectral density values due to wave refraction for natural (a)
and modelled (b) depths
Consequently, as the waves propagate from deep to shallow water, a filtration of spectral components takes place, caused by the influence of depth.
Long-wave components are deviated to the small depth values, whereas the
short-wave components penetrate to the calculated point area without any
essential changes.
As shown by this example the transformation of the spectrum and mean
wave elements can be principally different in field conditions from the wave
evolution case with straight isobaths, which is accepted to be a typical one.
Wave estimation in a coastal area with current. Now another example of wave wind transformation in a coastal area with current velocities
greater than 1.0 ms- 1 will be considered. This situation takes place at the
shelf of Sakhalin Island.
The rectangular coordinate system Oxy is chosen for numerical simulation
of the wave transformation (see Fig. 6.19). Its vertical Oy axis is directed
along the meridian, and the horizontal Ox axis is chosen along the parallel