293
9.4.1 Wind
Most of the year, the study area presented prevailing north-easterly winds (Fig. 9.12),
october were a months with the great magnitude of the wind, with records between
8 m/s and greater variability, registering northwest, north and northeast winds.
9.4.2 Wave Conditions
From the point of view of the coastal engineering, one of the main objectives to
advance a restoration project or to make a diagnosis of the condition of a coastal
area, must be determined sea states that represent marine conditions, mainly the
waves and wind, for both mean regime and during extreme events.
Through the use of mathematical statistics and probability adjustment functions
are estimated and classify the sea states, their direction, magnitude and recurrence.
For the study was used the synthetic wave information of virtual buoys near to
the zone developed by the company Buoyweather. The series of synthetic waves
were generated by the reanalysis technique with the WAVEWACTH III model,
which have an hourly and temporary resolution and a 30 years period.
2
4
6
8
30
210
60
240
90
270
120
300
150
330
180
0
Fig. 9.12 Annual average wind rose (1979–2013) for October month (Source: NCEP North
American Regional Wave Reanalysis: NARR)
9 Physical and Morphological Changes to Wetlands Induced by Coastal Structures