292
(b) Wentworth classification; and (c) The Unified Soil Classification System (SUCS)
(Fig. 9.11).
9.4 Wave Climate Analysis
The objective of the wave climate analysis is to provide detailed knowledge, both in
deep water and in specific points of the area of interest, the current situation of the
wave characteristics, sea level and currents that allow helping to understand the
hydrodynamic operation of the study area. Without this knowledge, it is not possible
to determine the causes and possible solutions to the problems of coastal erosion of
a beach.
In search of characterizing the atmospheric conditions in the area of the
Mallorquín coastal lagoon, it was extracted the climate information from the database NCEP North American Regional Reanalysis (NARR). The NARR database
starts from January 1st, 1979 until December 31st, 2013 with information every 3 h
daily, hourly and monthly of the Central America and the Caribbean hemisphere.
The NARR information contains the main physical parameters of the meteo-marines
conditions such as the wind, heat flows, solar radiation, and humidity, among
others.
100
6.6439
3.3219
-3.3219
0
90
80
70
60
50
Percent finer by weight (%)
40
30
20
10
0
0.01
0.1
1
1 0
Grain size (in mm)
Grain size (in φ units)
Fine
Sand
Gravel
Fig. 9.11 Cumulative mass retained berms zone. Coastal bar Mallorquín Lagoon
G.D. Rivillas-Ospina et al.
(b) Wentworth classification; and (c) The Unified Soil Classification System (SUCS)
(Fig. 9.11).
9.4 Wave Climate Analysis
The objective of the wave climate analysis is to provide detailed knowledge, both in
deep water and in specific points of the area of interest, the current situation of the
wave characteristics, sea level and currents that allow helping to understand the
hydrodynamic operation of the study area. Without this knowledge, it is not possible
to determine the causes and possible solutions to the problems of coastal erosion of
a beach.
In search of characterizing the atmospheric conditions in the area of the
Mallorquín coastal lagoon, it was extracted the climate information from the database NCEP North American Regional Reanalysis (NARR). The NARR database
starts from January 1st, 1979 until December 31st, 2013 with information every 3 h
daily, hourly and monthly of the Central America and the Caribbean hemisphere.
The NARR information contains the main physical parameters of the meteo-marines
conditions such as the wind, heat flows, solar radiation, and humidity, among
others.
100
6.6439
3.3219
-3.3219
0
90
80
70
60
50
Percent finer by weight (%)
40
30
20
10
0
0.01
0.1
1
1 0
Grain size (in mm)
Grain size (in φ units)
Fine
Sand
Gravel
Fig. 9.11 Cumulative mass retained berms zone. Coastal bar Mallorquín Lagoon
G.D. Rivillas-Ospina et al.