8
Introduction
tion in a finite depth basin. It was classified as a third-generation wind wave
model.
This description was similar to the SWAMP group terminology. It meant
that the first-generation models did not take into account non-linear wave
interaction; the second-generation models included simple approximation of
non-linear energy transfer. It should be noted that non-linear transfer was
approximated in the WAM model, thus helping select the model into the
more accurate next class. In the fourth-generation models, an attempt was
made to estimate the self-consistent motion of the atmospheric boundary
layer and rough sea surface (Komen et al., 1994). At present, the WAM
model is being improved, tested and widely used both for global scale and
local water areas. The operational WAM model variant assimilates satellite
information for updating the wave forecast.
The publication of the monograph Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean
Waves (Kamen et al., 1994) by the WAMDI international working group
was an important event. The monograph generalised theoretical and experimental wind wave investigations carried out in Western countries. Practically
at the same time (at the beginning of 1995) the monograph of Russian researchers Problems of Research and Mathematical Modelling of Wind Waves
(1995) was published. It presented some new results of wind wave research
obtained in Russia and formulated unsolved problems. Thus, theoretical and
experimental research of wind waves was summarised.
When the WAMDI group's work was over, a new international project
WISE (Waves In Shallow Environments) appeared on the initiative ofL. Holthuijsen, L. Cavaleri, et al. Its aim was to continue researching and developing
a more advanced wind wave model for shallow sea areas. This model was
created and named SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) published by Ris,
(1997), Booij et al., (1999). This was a third-generation model. In addition
to parameterisation of the physical mechanisms forming a wave spectrum in
deep water, it also included the effects of refraction, three-wave interactions
and wave energy dissipation connected with waves breaking in shallow water.
It should be noted that the theory and methods of numerical modelling are
being constantly improved: there are new papers, results (6th International
Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting, 2000) and models (WAVEWATCH, Tolman, 1991; PHIDIAS, Van Vledder et. al., 1994; TOMAWAC,
Benoit et al., 1996). It should be noted that a new, so-called Narrow
Angle Approximation Model (NAAM), has been developed recently in Russia
(Zaslavskii, 2000), based on a precise estimation of non-linear energy transfer in the wind wave spectrum with narrow angular distribution (Zaslavskii,
1989b).
There is a new monograph by S. Massel (1996), in which an attempt
is made to generalise the results of wind wave studies not only in Western
countries, but also in Russia. It is a pity that only a restricted review of
Russian publications without recent results was given in it.
Introduction
tion in a finite depth basin. It was classified as a third-generation wind wave
model.
This description was similar to the SWAMP group terminology. It meant
that the first-generation models did not take into account non-linear wave
interaction; the second-generation models included simple approximation of
non-linear energy transfer. It should be noted that non-linear transfer was
approximated in the WAM model, thus helping select the model into the
more accurate next class. In the fourth-generation models, an attempt was
made to estimate the self-consistent motion of the atmospheric boundary
layer and rough sea surface (Komen et al., 1994). At present, the WAM
model is being improved, tested and widely used both for global scale and
local water areas. The operational WAM model variant assimilates satellite
information for updating the wave forecast.
The publication of the monograph Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean
Waves (Kamen et al., 1994) by the WAMDI international working group
was an important event. The monograph generalised theoretical and experimental wind wave investigations carried out in Western countries. Practically
at the same time (at the beginning of 1995) the monograph of Russian researchers Problems of Research and Mathematical Modelling of Wind Waves
(1995) was published. It presented some new results of wind wave research
obtained in Russia and formulated unsolved problems. Thus, theoretical and
experimental research of wind waves was summarised.
When the WAMDI group's work was over, a new international project
WISE (Waves In Shallow Environments) appeared on the initiative ofL. Holthuijsen, L. Cavaleri, et al. Its aim was to continue researching and developing
a more advanced wind wave model for shallow sea areas. This model was
created and named SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) published by Ris,
(1997), Booij et al., (1999). This was a third-generation model. In addition
to parameterisation of the physical mechanisms forming a wave spectrum in
deep water, it also included the effects of refraction, three-wave interactions
and wave energy dissipation connected with waves breaking in shallow water.
It should be noted that the theory and methods of numerical modelling are
being constantly improved: there are new papers, results (6th International
Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting, 2000) and models (WAVEWATCH, Tolman, 1991; PHIDIAS, Van Vledder et. al., 1994; TOMAWAC,
Benoit et al., 1996). It should be noted that a new, so-called Narrow
Angle Approximation Model (NAAM), has been developed recently in Russia
(Zaslavskii, 2000), based on a precise estimation of non-linear energy transfer in the wind wave spectrum with narrow angular distribution (Zaslavskii,
1989b).
There is a new monograph by S. Massel (1996), in which an attempt
is made to generalise the results of wind wave studies not only in Western
countries, but also in Russia. It is a pity that only a restricted review of
Russian publications without recent results was given in it.