2
Vmax
5.3 Spectral Model of Rips
165
I
I
Current
<:==v
X
Fig. 5.4. Scheme of frontal type rip generation: 1 - calm water; 2 - transition
zone; 3 - breaking zone; 4- whirlpool ; 5 - background waves; 6 - submarine bank;
Xm - maximum current speed point
S,crn'.s
to- 1 I 95%
3
Fig. 5.5. Surface wave spectra in frontal type rips (Barenblatt et al., 1985):
1 - calm water; 2 - transition zone; 3 - breaking zone; 4 - whirlpool; 5 - Phillips'
equilibrium spectrum