IV. Retreating Shorelines
161
Seasonal profiles (cf. further section 3) can develop as wave heights vary and are
referred to as swell profile and storm profile. These changes are very important :
the storm profile lets the wave swash attack more directly the coast. It behooves
us to recall that broken waves, on small gradient beaches, become bores which
cross the surf zone and become swash as they rush up the beach face (figs. 1 and
2).
--o@ll~e
• l •
!
t.
mls,z.onao<:el
_ | ,
!
'
!
i"
!
i
back r~ort
T •
enmrtort or r.~mttol ctrqtta
I
I
I
Fig. la "Beach profile terminology
161
Seasonal profiles (cf. further section 3) can develop as wave heights vary and are
referred to as swell profile and storm profile. These changes are very important :
the storm profile lets the wave swash attack more directly the coast. It behooves
us to recall that broken waves, on small gradient beaches, become bores which
cross the surf zone and become swash as they rush up the beach face (figs. 1 and
2).
--o@ll~e
• l •
!
t.
mls,z.onao<:el
_ | ,
!
'
!
i"
!
i
back r~ort
T •
enmrtort or r.~mttol ctrqtta
I
I
I
Fig. la "Beach profile terminology