162
R.H. Charlier and Chr. P. De Meyer
Ifl~OCtlln~
SW
profiles: stccmlST1 ~
swtll I.S'~.
Fig. lb " Storm and swell profiles
2.2
Storm Waves
Storm waves arriving at relatively steep beaches, very variable in direction, in
numerous wave trains, will result in a crest reaching the beach almost every
second. As a consequence large volumes of water are constantly poured onto the
beach face, which becomes saturated ; water table and beach face coincide,
backwash nearly equals uprush. Material is carried seaward, by the downflow,
from the beach face surface, furthermore undermined by the large hydraulic jump
at its foot (fig. 2).
R.H. Charlier and Chr. P. De Meyer
Ifl~OCtlln~
SW
profiles: stccmlST1 ~
swtll I.S'~.
Fig. lb " Storm and swell profiles
2.2
Storm Waves
Storm waves arriving at relatively steep beaches, very variable in direction, in
numerous wave trains, will result in a crest reaching the beach almost every
second. As a consequence large volumes of water are constantly poured onto the
beach face, which becomes saturated ; water table and beach face coincide,
backwash nearly equals uprush. Material is carried seaward, by the downflow,
from the beach face surface, furthermore undermined by the large hydraulic jump
at its foot (fig. 2).