Part A | 4
98 Part A Fundamentals
methods for calculating fully nonlinear waves and the
resultant forces on bodies were discussed. The interaction of waves with a submerged or floating body was
also considered, including discussions of the Froude–
Krylov force of the incident wave and the Morison
equation method for determining the inertia and dragcomponents of the wave exciting force.
Related topics such as wind wave generation, sea
spectra, and wave energy conversion are discussed in
other chapters of the Handbook.
References
4.1
A.D.D. Craik: The origins of water wave theory, Annu.
Rev. Fluid Mech. 36, 1–28 (2004)
4.2
J.H. Michell: The wave-resistance of a ship, Philos.
Mag. 45(5), 106–123 (1898)
4.3
E.O. Tuck: Wave resistance of thin ships and catamarans, Tech. Rep., Vol. T8701 (University of Adelaide,
Adelaide 1987)
4.4
M.S. Longuet-Higgins, E.D. Cokelet: The deformation of steep surface waves on water: I. A numerical
method of computation, Proc. R. Soc. L. A 350, 1–26
(1976)
4.5
H. Lamb: Hydrodynamics (Dover, Mineola 1945)
4.6
J.J. Stoker: Water Waves – The Mathematical Theory
with Applications (Wiley, New York 1958)
4.7
J.V. Wehausen, E.V. Laitone: Surface waves. In: Fluid
Dynamics, Encyclopedia fo Physics, Vol. 3, ed. by
C. Trusdell (Springer, Berlin, Heidlberg 1960)
4.8
R.G. Dean, R.A. Dalrymple: Water Wave Mechanics for
Engineers and Scientists, Advanced Series on Ocean
Engeneering, Vol. 2 (World Scientific, Singapure 1991)
4.9
J.N. Newman: Marine Hydrodynamics (MIT Press,
Cambridge 1977)
4.10 G.G. Stokes: On the theory of oscillatory waves, Trans.
Camb. Philos. Soc. 8, 441–455 (1847)
4.11 V.E. Zakharov: Stability of periodic waves of finite
amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid, J. Appl.
Mech. Tech. Phys. 9, 190–194 (1968)
4.12 J.N. Sharma, R.G. Dean: Second order directional
seas and associated wave forces, Soc. Petroleum Eng.
J. 21, 129–140 (1981)
4.13 O.M. Phillips: The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean
(Cambridge Univ. Press, Cambridge 1980)
4.14 D.J. Benney: Nonlinear gravity wave interactions,
J. Fluid Mech. 14, 577–584 (1962)
4.15 S. Hasselmann, K. Hasselmann: Computations and
parameterizations of the nonlinear energy transfer
in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1: A new method for
efficient computations of the exact nonlinear transfer integral, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 15, 1369–1377 (1985)
4.16 D.H. Peregrine: Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech.
27, 815–827 (1967)
4.17 R.L. Wiegel: A presentation of cnoidal wave theory
for practical application, J. Fluid Mech. 7, 273–286
(1960)
4.18 M.H. Freilich, R.T. Guza: Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. Lond.
A 311, 1–41 (1984)
4.19 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet, J. Gonsalves, M. Stiassnie:
Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling
wave field, Coast. Eng. 20, 29–58 (1993)
4.20 J.M. Kaihatu, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear transformation of
waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids 7, 1903–1914
(1995)
4.21 H. Bredmose, Y. Agnon, P.A. Madsen: Wave transformation models with exact second order transfer, Eur.
J. Mech. B/Fluids 24, 659–682 (2005)
4.22 T.T. Janssen, T.H.C. Herbers, J.A. Battjes: Generalized
evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity
waves over two-dimensional topography, J. Fluid
Mech. 552, 393–418 (2006)
4.23 J.C.W. Berkhoff: Computation of combined refraction-diffraction, Proc. 13th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1972) pp. 471–490
4.24 Z. Demirbilek, V. Panchang: CGWAVE: A Coastal Surface Water Wave Model of the Mild Slope Equation, Tech. Rep., Vol. CHL-98-26 (US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg
1998)
4.25 A.C. Radder: On the parabolic equation method for
water wave propagation, J. Fluid Mech. 95, 159–176
(1979)
4.26 J.T. Kirby: Higher-order approximations in the
parabolic equation method for water waves, J. Geophys. Res. 91, 933–952 (1986)
4.27 Y. Tang, Y. Ouellet: A new kind of nonlinear mildslope equation for combined refraction-diffraction
of multi-frequency waves, Coast. Eng. 31, 3–36
(1997)
4.28 J. McCowan: On the highest wave of permanent type,
Philos. Mag. 38, 351–358 (1894)
4.29 R. Miche: Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en
profondeur constante ou decroissante, Ann. Ponts
Chaussees 114e, 42–78 (1944)
4.30 R.J. Weggel: Maximum breaker height, J. Waterw.
Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 98, 529–548 (1972)
4.31 B. Le Mehaute: On non-saturated breakers and the
wave runup, Proc. 8th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1962)
pp. 77–92
4.32 K. Horikawa, C.-T. Kuo: A study of wave transformation inside surf zone, Proc. 7th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1966) pp. 217–233
4.33 W.R. Dally, R.G. Dean, R.A. Dalrymple: Wave height
variation across beaches of arbitrary profile, J. Geophys. Res. 90, 11917–11927 (1985)
4.34 J.A. Battjes: Set-up due to irregular waves, Proc. 13th
Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1972) pp. 1993–2004
4.35 Y. Goda: Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone,
Coast. Eng. Japan 18, 13–26 (1975)
4.36 J.A. Battjes, J.P.F.M. Janssen: Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves, Proc. 16th Int.
Conf. Coast. Eng. (1978) pp. 569–587
4.37 M.S. Longuet-Higgins: On the statistical distributions
of sea waves, J. Mar. Res. 11, 245–265 (1952)
4.38 E.B. Thornton, R.T. Guza: Transformation of wave
height distribution, J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938
(1983)
98 Part A Fundamentals
methods for calculating fully nonlinear waves and the
resultant forces on bodies were discussed. The interaction of waves with a submerged or floating body was
also considered, including discussions of the Froude–
Krylov force of the incident wave and the Morison
equation method for determining the inertia and dragcomponents of the wave exciting force.
Related topics such as wind wave generation, sea
spectra, and wave energy conversion are discussed in
other chapters of the Handbook.
References
4.1
A.D.D. Craik: The origins of water wave theory, Annu.
Rev. Fluid Mech. 36, 1–28 (2004)
4.2
J.H. Michell: The wave-resistance of a ship, Philos.
Mag. 45(5), 106–123 (1898)
4.3
E.O. Tuck: Wave resistance of thin ships and catamarans, Tech. Rep., Vol. T8701 (University of Adelaide,
Adelaide 1987)
4.4
M.S. Longuet-Higgins, E.D. Cokelet: The deformation of steep surface waves on water: I. A numerical
method of computation, Proc. R. Soc. L. A 350, 1–26
(1976)
4.5
H. Lamb: Hydrodynamics (Dover, Mineola 1945)
4.6
J.J. Stoker: Water Waves – The Mathematical Theory
with Applications (Wiley, New York 1958)
4.7
J.V. Wehausen, E.V. Laitone: Surface waves. In: Fluid
Dynamics, Encyclopedia fo Physics, Vol. 3, ed. by
C. Trusdell (Springer, Berlin, Heidlberg 1960)
4.8
R.G. Dean, R.A. Dalrymple: Water Wave Mechanics for
Engineers and Scientists, Advanced Series on Ocean
Engeneering, Vol. 2 (World Scientific, Singapure 1991)
4.9
J.N. Newman: Marine Hydrodynamics (MIT Press,
Cambridge 1977)
4.10 G.G. Stokes: On the theory of oscillatory waves, Trans.
Camb. Philos. Soc. 8, 441–455 (1847)
4.11 V.E. Zakharov: Stability of periodic waves of finite
amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid, J. Appl.
Mech. Tech. Phys. 9, 190–194 (1968)
4.12 J.N. Sharma, R.G. Dean: Second order directional
seas and associated wave forces, Soc. Petroleum Eng.
J. 21, 129–140 (1981)
4.13 O.M. Phillips: The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean
(Cambridge Univ. Press, Cambridge 1980)
4.14 D.J. Benney: Nonlinear gravity wave interactions,
J. Fluid Mech. 14, 577–584 (1962)
4.15 S. Hasselmann, K. Hasselmann: Computations and
parameterizations of the nonlinear energy transfer
in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1: A new method for
efficient computations of the exact nonlinear transfer integral, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 15, 1369–1377 (1985)
4.16 D.H. Peregrine: Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech.
27, 815–827 (1967)
4.17 R.L. Wiegel: A presentation of cnoidal wave theory
for practical application, J. Fluid Mech. 7, 273–286
(1960)
4.18 M.H. Freilich, R.T. Guza: Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. Lond.
A 311, 1–41 (1984)
4.19 Y. Agnon, A. Sheremet, J. Gonsalves, M. Stiassnie:
Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling
wave field, Coast. Eng. 20, 29–58 (1993)
4.20 J.M. Kaihatu, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear transformation of
waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids 7, 1903–1914
(1995)
4.21 H. Bredmose, Y. Agnon, P.A. Madsen: Wave transformation models with exact second order transfer, Eur.
J. Mech. B/Fluids 24, 659–682 (2005)
4.22 T.T. Janssen, T.H.C. Herbers, J.A. Battjes: Generalized
evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity
waves over two-dimensional topography, J. Fluid
Mech. 552, 393–418 (2006)
4.23 J.C.W. Berkhoff: Computation of combined refraction-diffraction, Proc. 13th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1972) pp. 471–490
4.24 Z. Demirbilek, V. Panchang: CGWAVE: A Coastal Surface Water Wave Model of the Mild Slope Equation, Tech. Rep., Vol. CHL-98-26 (US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg
1998)
4.25 A.C. Radder: On the parabolic equation method for
water wave propagation, J. Fluid Mech. 95, 159–176
(1979)
4.26 J.T. Kirby: Higher-order approximations in the
parabolic equation method for water waves, J. Geophys. Res. 91, 933–952 (1986)
4.27 Y. Tang, Y. Ouellet: A new kind of nonlinear mildslope equation for combined refraction-diffraction
of multi-frequency waves, Coast. Eng. 31, 3–36
(1997)
4.28 J. McCowan: On the highest wave of permanent type,
Philos. Mag. 38, 351–358 (1894)
4.29 R. Miche: Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en
profondeur constante ou decroissante, Ann. Ponts
Chaussees 114e, 42–78 (1944)
4.30 R.J. Weggel: Maximum breaker height, J. Waterw.
Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 98, 529–548 (1972)
4.31 B. Le Mehaute: On non-saturated breakers and the
wave runup, Proc. 8th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1962)
pp. 77–92
4.32 K. Horikawa, C.-T. Kuo: A study of wave transformation inside surf zone, Proc. 7th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1966) pp. 217–233
4.33 W.R. Dally, R.G. Dean, R.A. Dalrymple: Wave height
variation across beaches of arbitrary profile, J. Geophys. Res. 90, 11917–11927 (1985)
4.34 J.A. Battjes: Set-up due to irregular waves, Proc. 13th
Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. (1972) pp. 1993–2004
4.35 Y. Goda: Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone,
Coast. Eng. Japan 18, 13–26 (1975)
4.36 J.A. Battjes, J.P.F.M. Janssen: Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves, Proc. 16th Int.
Conf. Coast. Eng. (1978) pp. 569–587
4.37 M.S. Longuet-Higgins: On the statistical distributions
of sea waves, J. Mar. Res. 11, 245–265 (1952)
4.38 E.B. Thornton, R.T. Guza: Transformation of wave
height distribution, J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938
(1983)