Mechanics of Ocean Waves References 99
Part A | 4
4.39 Y. Eldeberky, J.A. Battjes: Spectral modeling of
wave breaking: Application to Boussinesq equations,
J. Geophys. Res. 101, 1253–1264 (1996)
4.40 T.T. Janssen, J.A. Battjes: A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches, Coast. Eng. 54, 711–716
(2007)
4.41 T.E. Baldock, P. Holmes, S. Bunker, P. van Weert:
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated
surf zone, Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196 (1998)
4.42 G. Symonds, D.A. Huntley, A.J. Bowen: Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a timevarying breakpoint, J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492–498
(1982)
4.43 B. Gallagher: Generation of surf beat by nonlinear
wave interactions, J. Fluid Mech. 49, 1–20 (1971)
4.44 A.J. Bowen, R.T. Guza: Edge waves and surf beat,
J. Geophys. Res. 83, 1913–1920 (1978)
4.45 I.A. Svendsen: Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics (World Scientific, Singapore 2006)
4.46 D.A. Huntley, R.T. Guza, E.B. Thornton: Field observations of surf beat. 1. Progressive edge waves,
J. Geophys. Res. 86, 6451–6466 (1981)
4.47 F. Ursell: Edge waves on a sloping beach, Proc. R. Soc.
Lond. Ser. A 214, 79–97 (1952)
4.48 W.H. Munk: Surf beats, Trans. Am. Geophys. Union
30, 849–854 (1949)
4.49 M.J. Tucker: Surf beats: Sea waves of 1 to 5 min period, Proc. R. Soc. Lond. Ser. A 202, 565–573 (1952)
4.50 M.S. Longuet-Higgins, R.S. Stewart: Radiation
stresses in water waves – A physical discussion,
with applications, Deep Sea Res. 11, 529–562
(1964)
4.51 J.H. List: A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat, J. Geophys. Res. 97, 5623–5635
(1992)
4.52 M.A. Foda, C.C. Mei: Nonlinear excitation of longtrapped waves by a group of short swells, J. Fluid
Mech. 111, 319–345 (1981)
4.53 H.A. Schäffer, I.A. Svendsen: Surf beat generation on
a mild-slope beach, Proc. 21st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1988) pp. 1058–1072
4.54 S. Elgar, T.H.C. Herbers, M. Okihiro, J. Oltman-Shay,
R.T. Guza: Observations of infragravity waves, J. Geophys. Res. 97, 15573–15577 (1992)
4.55 A.R. Van Dongeren, I.A. Svendsen: Nonlinear and 3D
effects in leaky infragravity waves, Coast. Eng. 41,
467–496 (2000)
4.56 T.T. Janssen, J.A. Battjes, A.R. van Dongeren: Long
waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping
bottom, J. Geophys. Res. 108, 3252–3264 (2003)
4.57 J.A. Battjes, H.J. Bakkenes, T.T. Janssen, A.R. van
Dongeren: Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves,
J. Geophys. Res. 109, C02009 (2004)
4.58 J. Oltman-Shay, P.A. Howd, W.A. Birkemeier: Shear
instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2.
Field observations, J. Geophys. Res. 94, 18031–18042
(1989)
4.59 A.J. Bowen, R.A. Holman: Shear instabilities of the
mean longshore current: 1. Theory, J. Geophys. Res.
94, 18023–18030 (1989)
4.60 A.J.H.M. Reniers, J.A. Battjes, A. Falques, D.A. Huntley: A laboratory study on the shear instability of
longshore currents, J. Geophys. Res. 102, 8597–8609
(1997)
4.61 N. Dodd, A. Falques: A note on spatial modes in
longshore current shear instabilities, J. Geophys.
Res. 101, 22715–22726 (1996)
4.62 V.I. Shrira, V.V. Voronovich, N.G. Kozhelupova: Explosive instability of vorticity waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr.
27, 542–554 (1997)
4.63 F. Feddersen: Weakly nonlinear shear waves, J. Fluid
Mech. 372, 71–91 (1998)
4.64 D.N. Slinn, J.S. Allen, P.A. Newberger, R.A. Holman:
Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents
over barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res. 103, 18357–
18379 (1998)
4.65 H.T. Özkan-Haller, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear evolution of
shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observations and computations, J. Geophys. Res. 104, 25953–25984 (1999)
4.66 R.W. Yeung: Numerical methods for free-surface
flows, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech. 14, 395–442 (1982)
4.67 M.A. Grosenbaugh, R.W. Yeung: Nonlinear free-surface flow at a two-dimensional bow, J. Fluid Mech.
209, 57–75 (1989)
4.68 D.G. Dommermuth, D.K.P. Yue, W.M. Lin, R.J. Rapp,
E.S. Chan, W.K. Melville: Deep-water plunging
breakers: A comparison between potential theory
and experiments, J. Fluid Mech. 189, 423–442 (1988)
4.69 T. Vinje, P. Brevig: Nonlinear ship motion, Proc. 3rd
Int. Conf. Numer. Ship Hydrodyn., Paris (1981)
4.70 O. Saout, P. Ananthakrishnan: Hydrodynamic and
dynamic analysis to determine the stability of an
underwater vehicle near a free surface, Appl. Ocean
Res. 33, 158–167 (2011)
4.71 P. Ananthakrishnan: Effects of viscosity and freesurface nonlinearity on the wave motion generated by an oscillating twin-hull, Proc. OMAE 31st Int.
Conf. Ocean Arct. Offshore Eng., Rio de Janeiro (2012)
pp. 279–288
4.72 M. Xue: Xu H. Yue D. K. P.: Computations of fully
nonlinear three dimensional wave-wave and wavebody interaction: Part 1. Dynamics of steep three dimensional wave, Journal of Fluid Mechanics 438,
11–39 (2001)
4.73 J.R. Morison, M.P. O’Brien, J.W. Johnson, S.A. Schaaf:
The force exerted by surface waves on piles,
Petroleum Trans. 189, 149–154 (1950)
4.74 T. Sarpkaya, M. Isaacson: Mechanics of Wave Forces
on Offshore Structures (Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.,
New York 1981)
4.75 R. McCamy, R. Fuchs: Wave forces on piles: A diffraction theory, Tech. Memo, Vol. 69 (US Army Corps of
Engineers, Washington 1954)
4.76 C.C. Mei: The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface
Waves (World Scientific, Singapore 1989)
4.77 P. Ferrant, K. Pelletier: Second order wave diffraction
patterns about complex offshore structures, Proc.
1Oth Int. Conf. Offshore Polar Eng., Vol. 3 (2000)
pp. 686–693
Part A | 4
4.39 Y. Eldeberky, J.A. Battjes: Spectral modeling of
wave breaking: Application to Boussinesq equations,
J. Geophys. Res. 101, 1253–1264 (1996)
4.40 T.T. Janssen, J.A. Battjes: A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches, Coast. Eng. 54, 711–716
(2007)
4.41 T.E. Baldock, P. Holmes, S. Bunker, P. van Weert:
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated
surf zone, Coast. Eng. 34, 173–196 (1998)
4.42 G. Symonds, D.A. Huntley, A.J. Bowen: Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a timevarying breakpoint, J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492–498
(1982)
4.43 B. Gallagher: Generation of surf beat by nonlinear
wave interactions, J. Fluid Mech. 49, 1–20 (1971)
4.44 A.J. Bowen, R.T. Guza: Edge waves and surf beat,
J. Geophys. Res. 83, 1913–1920 (1978)
4.45 I.A. Svendsen: Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics (World Scientific, Singapore 2006)
4.46 D.A. Huntley, R.T. Guza, E.B. Thornton: Field observations of surf beat. 1. Progressive edge waves,
J. Geophys. Res. 86, 6451–6466 (1981)
4.47 F. Ursell: Edge waves on a sloping beach, Proc. R. Soc.
Lond. Ser. A 214, 79–97 (1952)
4.48 W.H. Munk: Surf beats, Trans. Am. Geophys. Union
30, 849–854 (1949)
4.49 M.J. Tucker: Surf beats: Sea waves of 1 to 5 min period, Proc. R. Soc. Lond. Ser. A 202, 565–573 (1952)
4.50 M.S. Longuet-Higgins, R.S. Stewart: Radiation
stresses in water waves – A physical discussion,
with applications, Deep Sea Res. 11, 529–562
(1964)
4.51 J.H. List: A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat, J. Geophys. Res. 97, 5623–5635
(1992)
4.52 M.A. Foda, C.C. Mei: Nonlinear excitation of longtrapped waves by a group of short swells, J. Fluid
Mech. 111, 319–345 (1981)
4.53 H.A. Schäffer, I.A. Svendsen: Surf beat generation on
a mild-slope beach, Proc. 21st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng.
(1988) pp. 1058–1072
4.54 S. Elgar, T.H.C. Herbers, M. Okihiro, J. Oltman-Shay,
R.T. Guza: Observations of infragravity waves, J. Geophys. Res. 97, 15573–15577 (1992)
4.55 A.R. Van Dongeren, I.A. Svendsen: Nonlinear and 3D
effects in leaky infragravity waves, Coast. Eng. 41,
467–496 (2000)
4.56 T.T. Janssen, J.A. Battjes, A.R. van Dongeren: Long
waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping
bottom, J. Geophys. Res. 108, 3252–3264 (2003)
4.57 J.A. Battjes, H.J. Bakkenes, T.T. Janssen, A.R. van
Dongeren: Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves,
J. Geophys. Res. 109, C02009 (2004)
4.58 J. Oltman-Shay, P.A. Howd, W.A. Birkemeier: Shear
instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2.
Field observations, J. Geophys. Res. 94, 18031–18042
(1989)
4.59 A.J. Bowen, R.A. Holman: Shear instabilities of the
mean longshore current: 1. Theory, J. Geophys. Res.
94, 18023–18030 (1989)
4.60 A.J.H.M. Reniers, J.A. Battjes, A. Falques, D.A. Huntley: A laboratory study on the shear instability of
longshore currents, J. Geophys. Res. 102, 8597–8609
(1997)
4.61 N. Dodd, A. Falques: A note on spatial modes in
longshore current shear instabilities, J. Geophys.
Res. 101, 22715–22726 (1996)
4.62 V.I. Shrira, V.V. Voronovich, N.G. Kozhelupova: Explosive instability of vorticity waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr.
27, 542–554 (1997)
4.63 F. Feddersen: Weakly nonlinear shear waves, J. Fluid
Mech. 372, 71–91 (1998)
4.64 D.N. Slinn, J.S. Allen, P.A. Newberger, R.A. Holman:
Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents
over barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res. 103, 18357–
18379 (1998)
4.65 H.T. Özkan-Haller, J.T. Kirby: Nonlinear evolution of
shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observations and computations, J. Geophys. Res. 104, 25953–25984 (1999)
4.66 R.W. Yeung: Numerical methods for free-surface
flows, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech. 14, 395–442 (1982)
4.67 M.A. Grosenbaugh, R.W. Yeung: Nonlinear free-surface flow at a two-dimensional bow, J. Fluid Mech.
209, 57–75 (1989)
4.68 D.G. Dommermuth, D.K.P. Yue, W.M. Lin, R.J. Rapp,
E.S. Chan, W.K. Melville: Deep-water plunging
breakers: A comparison between potential theory
and experiments, J. Fluid Mech. 189, 423–442 (1988)
4.69 T. Vinje, P. Brevig: Nonlinear ship motion, Proc. 3rd
Int. Conf. Numer. Ship Hydrodyn., Paris (1981)
4.70 O. Saout, P. Ananthakrishnan: Hydrodynamic and
dynamic analysis to determine the stability of an
underwater vehicle near a free surface, Appl. Ocean
Res. 33, 158–167 (2011)
4.71 P. Ananthakrishnan: Effects of viscosity and freesurface nonlinearity on the wave motion generated by an oscillating twin-hull, Proc. OMAE 31st Int.
Conf. Ocean Arct. Offshore Eng., Rio de Janeiro (2012)
pp. 279–288
4.72 M. Xue: Xu H. Yue D. K. P.: Computations of fully
nonlinear three dimensional wave-wave and wavebody interaction: Part 1. Dynamics of steep three dimensional wave, Journal of Fluid Mechanics 438,
11–39 (2001)
4.73 J.R. Morison, M.P. O’Brien, J.W. Johnson, S.A. Schaaf:
The force exerted by surface waves on piles,
Petroleum Trans. 189, 149–154 (1950)
4.74 T. Sarpkaya, M. Isaacson: Mechanics of Wave Forces
on Offshore Structures (Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.,
New York 1981)
4.75 R. McCamy, R. Fuchs: Wave forces on piles: A diffraction theory, Tech. Memo, Vol. 69 (US Army Corps of
Engineers, Washington 1954)
4.76 C.C. Mei: The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface
Waves (World Scientific, Singapore 1989)
4.77 P. Ferrant, K. Pelletier: Second order wave diffraction
patterns about complex offshore structures, Proc.
1Oth Int. Conf. Offshore Polar Eng., Vol. 3 (2000)
pp. 686–693