Appendix D Computer Programs ApD
515
D.2.4 Program D.42: Surface Wave Profiles Resulting from Various
Wave Theories
• Theoretical background: see Section 4.2.2 and 4.2.3.
• Input data:
- wave height H [m],
- wave period T [s],
- wave depth h [m].
• Output: profiles of wave surface according to small amplitude and Stokes'
wave theories, or according to solitary wave theory. In each case, a value
of the Ursell number, U, is given. Small amplitude, or Stokes' wave
theories, are appropriate for U < 40. For U > > 40, solitary wave theory
should be used.
D.2.5 Program D.43: Vertical Profiles of Horizontal Orbital Velocity Under Wave Crest and Wave Trough
• Theoretical background: see Section 4.2.2.
• Input data:
- wave height H [m],
- wave period T [s],
- water depth h [m].
• Output: vertical profiles of the horizontal velocities under wave crest
and wave trough. The maximum values of the horizontal velocities are
indicated.
D.2.6 Program D.44: Vertical Profiles of Wave-Induced Pressure
Under Wave Crest and Trough
• Theoretical background: see Section 4.2.2.
• Input data:
- wave height H [m],
- wave period T [s],
- water depth h [m].
• Output: vertical profiles of pressure under wave crest and wave trough.
The hydrostatic pressure component and total pressure are distinguished
and the maximum values of pressure at the sea bottom are indicated.