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Appendix D Computer Programs ApD
D.2.2 Program D31: Surface Displacement for Fixed Location or
at Given Time Instant
• Theoretical background: see Sects. 3.4.1 and 4.2.2.
• Input data:
- wave height H [m],
- wave period T [s],
- water depth h [m].
• Output:
- Representation 1: wave surface changing in time and observations
at a fixed point.
- Representation 2: snapshots of wave surface at selected time instants: t = 0, t = T /4, and t = 5T /8. Comparison of three curves
demonstrates the phase shifts between particular time series.
D.2.3 Program D.41: Calculation of Wavelength (or Wave Period)
and Phase and Group Velocities
• Theoretical background: see Section 4.2.2.
• Input data:
- Option 1:
* wave period T [s],
* wave depth h [m].
- Option 2:
* wavelength L [m],
* wave depth h [m].
• Output data:
- Option 1:
* values of wave frequency w [rad/s],
* wavelength L [m],
* wave number k [l/m],
* phase velocity C [m/s]'
* grqup velocity C 9 [m/s].
- Option 2:
* wave period T [s],
* wave frequency w [rad/s]'
* wave number k [l/m],
* phase velocity C [m/s] ,
* group velocity C 9 [m/s].