The Cosmeceutical Properties of Compounds Derived from Marine Algae 205
is usually extracted from heated algae. Extraction methods may be controlled to produce high molecular
weight materials that can further be fractionated to lower molecular weight derivatives. Levels of sulfation
and acetylation can be controlled to enable formation of new substances with increased efficacy. Wang et
al. (2008) reported that there is a positive correlation between the ratio of sulfate content to fucose content
and the level of antioxidant activity in a fucoidan extract.
Of particular interest are the purified fucoidan extracts of Fucus vesiculosus. When formulated into
creams and lotions, they are used as anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle products, inhibiting matrix enzymes,
such as hyaluronidase, heparanase, phospholipase A2, tyrosine kinase, and collagenase and also act as
anti-inflammatory agents. These products were also found to increase the number of dermal fibroblasts
and deposition of collagen, collagen tightness, and facial elasticity. As such, it demonstrates soothing,
smoothing, emollient, and skin conditioning properties (Fujimura et al. 2000). The fucoidan extract of
Fucus vesiculosus (M ≤ 30,000 g mol
–1
), promotes contraction of fibroblast-populated collagen gels
(a simplified in vitro model of the dermis), thus contributing to its epithelizing properties (Fujimura et
al. 2000). The promotion of collagen gel contraction is caused by an increased expression of cell surface
integrin α 2 and β 1 subunit molecules on the surface of the fibroblasts (Fujimura et al. 2002). Integrins
mediate interactions between fibroblasts and extracellular matrix proteins (including collagen fibers)
in the dermis. This suggests the possibility that fucoidan extracts could improve the thickness and the
mechanical properties of human skin in vivo by enhancing the integrin expression of skin fibroblasts. A
significant decrease in skin thickness, together with a significant improvement in elasticity was recorded,
when compared to skin treated with a placebo gel (Fujimura et al. 2002). Given that the thickness
normally increases and the elasticity usually decreases with age in cheek skin, these results demonstrate
the anti-ageing activity of the fucoidan extracted from Fucus vesiculosus. Moreover, it was shown that
fucoidan extracts aid in the promotion of collagen gel contraction. Such contraction is usually caused
by an increased expression of cell surface integrins, which mediate interactions between fibroblast and
extracellular matrix proteins in the dermis. Integrins are a large family of transmembrane glycoproteins
that attach cells to the extracellular matrix or to ligands on other cells. Hence, Fucus vesiculosus extracts
can be beneficial in a wide variety of cosmetics due to their effects on skin tightening, anti-sagging, and
wrinkle smoothing properties. Fucoidans are also of interest due to their inhibitory effects on aging and
photo-damaged skin when applied topically. Studies have demonstrated that fucoidan enhances dermal
fibroblast proliferation and deposition of collagen (Senni et al. 2006). Matrix metalloproteases (MMPs),
which modulate connective tissue breakdown, and hyaluronidase, are inhibited by low molecular weight
fucoidan from Undaria and a smaller molecular weight fucoidan from Sargassum.
Skin wrinkling is normally attributed to the ROS released upon oxidative stress. ROS activated protein
kinases phosphorylates transcription factor activator protein 1, which, in turn, increases expression of
MMP that contributes to the degradation of skin collagen, ultimately leading to skin ageing (Fisher et al.
1996). Low molecular weight fucoidans enhance dermal fibroblast proliferation and deposition of collagen
and other matrix factors. They inhibit activity of MMPs due to increased association with their inhibitors,
resulting in the protection of human skin elastic fiber network (Senni et al. 2006). MMPs are proteolytic
enzymes that can be classified into subclasses of collagenases, gelatinases, stromelysins, matrilysins,
and membrane-type MMPs (MT-MMPs). MMPs are expressed in response to stimuli such as ultraviolet
radiation, cytokines, and growth factors. While their increased activation accelerates skin ageing, they
are essential in the prevention of wound scars. They are involved in degradation of the extracellular
matrix which is responsible for tissue repair (healing of wounds). MMPs are essential for remodelling the
extracellular matrix. Alterations in collagen and elastin present in the extracellular matrix are responsible
for the clinical manifestations of skin ageing (i.e., wrinkles, sagging and laxity) (Philips et al. 2007).
The atrophy of collagen and elastin fibers are the result of unregulated expression of their degradative
enzymes, collagenases (MMP-1), gelatinases (MMP-2 and -9), and elastases. Acute exposure of human
skin to UVB radiation can induce expression of the fibroblast collagenase-1 (MMP-1), thereby enhancing
the rate of loss of collagen from the skin (Brenneisen et al. 2002; Moon et al. 2008). The collagenases
(MMP-1, -8, -13, and -18) cleave structural (interstitial) collagens, with MMP-1 being the predominant
one. Fucoidan extracts have been shown to inhibit expression of MMP-1, and thus can be used to restore
elasticity of human skin (Moon et al. 2008). Floridoside and d-isofloridoside, isolated from the edible red
is usually extracted from heated algae. Extraction methods may be controlled to produce high molecular
weight materials that can further be fractionated to lower molecular weight derivatives. Levels of sulfation
and acetylation can be controlled to enable formation of new substances with increased efficacy. Wang et
al. (2008) reported that there is a positive correlation between the ratio of sulfate content to fucose content
and the level of antioxidant activity in a fucoidan extract.
Of particular interest are the purified fucoidan extracts of Fucus vesiculosus. When formulated into
creams and lotions, they are used as anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle products, inhibiting matrix enzymes,
such as hyaluronidase, heparanase, phospholipase A2, tyrosine kinase, and collagenase and also act as
anti-inflammatory agents. These products were also found to increase the number of dermal fibroblasts
and deposition of collagen, collagen tightness, and facial elasticity. As such, it demonstrates soothing,
smoothing, emollient, and skin conditioning properties (Fujimura et al. 2000). The fucoidan extract of
Fucus vesiculosus (M ≤ 30,000 g mol
–1
), promotes contraction of fibroblast-populated collagen gels
(a simplified in vitro model of the dermis), thus contributing to its epithelizing properties (Fujimura et
al. 2000). The promotion of collagen gel contraction is caused by an increased expression of cell surface
integrin α 2 and β 1 subunit molecules on the surface of the fibroblasts (Fujimura et al. 2002). Integrins
mediate interactions between fibroblasts and extracellular matrix proteins (including collagen fibers)
in the dermis. This suggests the possibility that fucoidan extracts could improve the thickness and the
mechanical properties of human skin in vivo by enhancing the integrin expression of skin fibroblasts. A
significant decrease in skin thickness, together with a significant improvement in elasticity was recorded,
when compared to skin treated with a placebo gel (Fujimura et al. 2002). Given that the thickness
normally increases and the elasticity usually decreases with age in cheek skin, these results demonstrate
the anti-ageing activity of the fucoidan extracted from Fucus vesiculosus. Moreover, it was shown that
fucoidan extracts aid in the promotion of collagen gel contraction. Such contraction is usually caused
by an increased expression of cell surface integrins, which mediate interactions between fibroblast and
extracellular matrix proteins in the dermis. Integrins are a large family of transmembrane glycoproteins
that attach cells to the extracellular matrix or to ligands on other cells. Hence, Fucus vesiculosus extracts
can be beneficial in a wide variety of cosmetics due to their effects on skin tightening, anti-sagging, and
wrinkle smoothing properties. Fucoidans are also of interest due to their inhibitory effects on aging and
photo-damaged skin when applied topically. Studies have demonstrated that fucoidan enhances dermal
fibroblast proliferation and deposition of collagen (Senni et al. 2006). Matrix metalloproteases (MMPs),
which modulate connective tissue breakdown, and hyaluronidase, are inhibited by low molecular weight
fucoidan from Undaria and a smaller molecular weight fucoidan from Sargassum.
Skin wrinkling is normally attributed to the ROS released upon oxidative stress. ROS activated protein
kinases phosphorylates transcription factor activator protein 1, which, in turn, increases expression of
MMP that contributes to the degradation of skin collagen, ultimately leading to skin ageing (Fisher et al.
1996). Low molecular weight fucoidans enhance dermal fibroblast proliferation and deposition of collagen
and other matrix factors. They inhibit activity of MMPs due to increased association with their inhibitors,
resulting in the protection of human skin elastic fiber network (Senni et al. 2006). MMPs are proteolytic
enzymes that can be classified into subclasses of collagenases, gelatinases, stromelysins, matrilysins,
and membrane-type MMPs (MT-MMPs). MMPs are expressed in response to stimuli such as ultraviolet
radiation, cytokines, and growth factors. While their increased activation accelerates skin ageing, they
are essential in the prevention of wound scars. They are involved in degradation of the extracellular
matrix which is responsible for tissue repair (healing of wounds). MMPs are essential for remodelling the
extracellular matrix. Alterations in collagen and elastin present in the extracellular matrix are responsible
for the clinical manifestations of skin ageing (i.e., wrinkles, sagging and laxity) (Philips et al. 2007).
The atrophy of collagen and elastin fibers are the result of unregulated expression of their degradative
enzymes, collagenases (MMP-1), gelatinases (MMP-2 and -9), and elastases. Acute exposure of human
skin to UVB radiation can induce expression of the fibroblast collagenase-1 (MMP-1), thereby enhancing
the rate of loss of collagen from the skin (Brenneisen et al. 2002; Moon et al. 2008). The collagenases
(MMP-1, -8, -13, and -18) cleave structural (interstitial) collagens, with MMP-1 being the predominant
one. Fucoidan extracts have been shown to inhibit expression of MMP-1, and thus can be used to restore
elasticity of human skin (Moon et al. 2008). Floridoside and d-isofloridoside, isolated from the edible red