are part of the design to optimize the fabric width and length and to achieve less than 15% fabric
waste. The overall fabric waste in this design is 3,7%.
Geometric shapes are manipulated in width and length according to the dimension of the fabric
used in printing. Corel is used for drafting the patterns instead of paper. The drafting of patterns
did not use a specific formula for a basic bodice and sleeve as a foundation pattern. Instead, the
designer used the basic measurements of the model to determine the length and width of a few parts
of the garment such as sleeve, belt, and dress. The pattern drafting process is done by constructing
a rectangular shape with the obtained measurements and adapting the basic details on a foundation
pattern such as darts, collar length, and depth. In this process, the designer should have a clear
view of how the shape will hold. The main idea is derived from the basic tubular shape of ancient
Greek costumes which is well known for its fabric optimization.
Figure 2. Pattern plot on Corel Draw. Source: Nabila, Annisa (2019)
After the final pattern is constructed in adobe illustrator according to its original measurements,
it is manipulated further by deleting unnecessary seams such as side seams and center seams. The
elimination of seam will provide a better canvas for the printed motif and ease the assembly process
after it is print and cut. When the pattern is set, the last stage is to position the motifs on the garment
patterns and adjusting the position accordingly. Seam allowance is then added to the final stage
before printing.
2.2 Producing a garment
Printing the final garment patterns with the applied motifs is done in the actual fabric dimension
due to efficiency and practical reasons in the assembly process. After the printing is done, the fabric
is cut out according to its seam allowance and hand-sewn to match the motifs. The hand- sewn
garment is inspected for shape and alterations are made during this process. Because of its basic
shape, major adjustments are not required for this design. The last stage in production is machine
sewing and final inspection of the garment quality.
3 RESULT
The result of this research is a dress with long sleeves with a ribbon collar and an outer garment
in a one-shoulder style completed with several belts. By using Corel draw as software to draft and
manipulate patterns, the designer can effectively produce patterns that are ready to print and sew
without wasting paper.
175
waste. The overall fabric waste in this design is 3,7%.
Geometric shapes are manipulated in width and length according to the dimension of the fabric
used in printing. Corel is used for drafting the patterns instead of paper. The drafting of patterns
did not use a specific formula for a basic bodice and sleeve as a foundation pattern. Instead, the
designer used the basic measurements of the model to determine the length and width of a few parts
of the garment such as sleeve, belt, and dress. The pattern drafting process is done by constructing
a rectangular shape with the obtained measurements and adapting the basic details on a foundation
pattern such as darts, collar length, and depth. In this process, the designer should have a clear
view of how the shape will hold. The main idea is derived from the basic tubular shape of ancient
Greek costumes which is well known for its fabric optimization.
Figure 2. Pattern plot on Corel Draw. Source: Nabila, Annisa (2019)
After the final pattern is constructed in adobe illustrator according to its original measurements,
it is manipulated further by deleting unnecessary seams such as side seams and center seams. The
elimination of seam will provide a better canvas for the printed motif and ease the assembly process
after it is print and cut. When the pattern is set, the last stage is to position the motifs on the garment
patterns and adjusting the position accordingly. Seam allowance is then added to the final stage
before printing.
2.2 Producing a garment
Printing the final garment patterns with the applied motifs is done in the actual fabric dimension
due to efficiency and practical reasons in the assembly process. After the printing is done, the fabric
is cut out according to its seam allowance and hand-sewn to match the motifs. The hand- sewn
garment is inspected for shape and alterations are made during this process. Because of its basic
shape, major adjustments are not required for this design. The last stage in production is machine
sewing and final inspection of the garment quality.
3 RESULT
The result of this research is a dress with long sleeves with a ribbon collar and an outer garment
in a one-shoulder style completed with several belts. By using Corel draw as software to draft and
manipulate patterns, the designer can effectively produce patterns that are ready to print and sew
without wasting paper.
175