Biotechnology: An Eco-friendly Tool of Nature for Textile …
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don’t influence the chemical nature, tenacity as well as strength of the fiber. Furthermore, bio-degumming improves the quality of fiber, also elevates its flexibility with
less odor [104].
The potent harnessing of microorganisms possessing polysaccharides degrading enzyme systems, O 2 plasma aided bio-degumming and pectinases based biodegumming are becoming eternally authoritative these days due to limitations of conventional degumming [105]. Pectinases or combinations of pectinases with xylanases
due to their specific nature are playing a leading role to remove gummy material as
pectin constitutes 40% dry weight of plants [103, 106]. This enzyme is responsible for
the degradation of pectin present in the primary cell wall and middle lamella [107].
Degumming, maceration, retting of hemp, ramie and jut bast fibers is effectively
completed with the assistance of pectinases. Thermo stable bacterial polygalacturonase exhibited excellent degumming of sunn hemp (C. juncea) and ramie (B. nivea)
bast fibers [106, 108]. To improve the results of bio-degumming, it is performed in
combination with chemicals such as urea, NaCl, Na 2 CO 3 and NaOH [109–111].
Analytical analysis of sunn and ramie hemp fiber by scanning electron microscopy
(SEM) indicates the complete loss of non-cellulosic gummy materials [112–114]
supported that soft alkali treatment enhances the bio-degumming properties. Optimum pH is a fundamental requirement of pectinases to avoid any contamination in
adopted open fermentation system [112]. Furthermore, to improve efficiency and
to lower enzyme doses, enzyme balances should be developed [35]. Only a small
amount of pectin for hydrolysis is required to attain maximum strength of retted flax
[115].
5 Silk Wet Processing
Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers with approximately 11% moisture regains
capacity [116, 117]. Silk loses its strength up to 20% during wetting, possesses
moderate to poor elasticity and faints in excessive sunlight [118]. Silk due to fiber
macrostructure upon relaxation shrinks up to 4% during wet or dry washing that
reversed with pressing [119]. Following these chemical processes are involved in
silk processing:
(i) degumming
(ii) bleaching
(iii) dyeing
(iv) finishing.
are involved in silk processing [12]. Sericin (approximately 25%) and fibroin (approximately 75%) are the functional moieties of silk fiber [16]. Sericin is responsible for
gum formation, the main impurity which is removed by degumming that is synonymous with cotton or wool scoring [120]. Besides sericin, other impurities like gum
tallow, starch or carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), etc. are also present in silk fiber
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