3 Hydrodynamics
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Fig. 3.66 Wave motion (gravity wave)
Fig. 3.67 Wave motion (gravitationally progressive wave)
wave crest
still water surface
wavelength
Wave top
ultra-high
wave height H
Wave
bottom
trough of
wave
Midline of
wave
Fig. 3.68 Wave elements
crest refers to the highest particle of wave crest; wave trough refers to the part
below the static water surface; wave bottom refers to the lowest particle of
wave trough; wave height refers to the vertical distance h between the wave
crest and wave bottom; wavelength refers to the horizontal distance λ between