CONTENTS
xiv
6.6 Other Movable-Bed Model Aspects.......................................... 321
6.6.1 Model Verification........................................................ 321
6.6.2 Movable-Bed Model Measurements............................. 322
6.6.3 Scale Selection and Model Operation.......................... 323
6.7 References...................................................................................
7 Laboratory Wave Generation
333
7.1 Introduction................................................................................ ^33
7.2 Two-Dimensional Governing Equations................................... 334
7.3 First-Order Wave Generation.................................................. 339
7.3.1 Piston-Type and Flap-Type Wavemakers................ 345
7.3.2 Variable-Draft Flap-Type Wavemaker....................... 356
7.3.3 Plunger-Type Wavemaker............................................ 364
7.4 Nonlinear Wave Generation..................................................... 366
7.4.1 Second-Order Stokes Waves......................................... 367
7.4.2 Solitary and Cnoidal Waves......................................... 379
7.5 Transient Wave Generation..................................................... 386
7.5.1 Piston-Type Wavemaker Started From Rest............. 386
7.5.2 Theories for Predicting Transient Waves................... 388
7.5.3 Generation of Specific Transient Waves ................... 389
7.6 Irregular (2-D) Wave Generation............................................ 392
7.6.1 Introduction ................................................................. 392
7.6.2 Irregular Wave Synthesis ............................................ 394
7.6.3 First-Order Irregular Wave Generation....................... 404
7.6.4 Second-Order Irregular Wave Generation ................ 410
7.7 Directional (3-D) Wave Generation......................................... 427
7.7.1 First-Order Oblique Regular Wave Generation . . . 428
7.7.2 Directional Irregular Wave Generation...................... 432
7.7.3 Practical Aspects of Directional Wavemakers .... 433
7.7.4 Second-Order Directional Wave Generation.............436
7.8 Additional Wave Generation Topics ...................................... 437
7.8.1 Spiral Wavemakers........................................................ 437
7.8.2 Wave Absorbers........................................................... 439
7.8.3 Other Types of Wavemakers......................................... 445
7.9 References................................................................................... 447
8 Laboratory Measurement and Analysis
459
8.1 Laboratory Measurements........................................................ 459
8.1.1 Introduction ................................................................. 459
8.1.2 Types of Measurements.............................................. 461
8.1.3 Selection of Instruments............................................... 464
8.1.4 Measurement Accuracy and Errors............................ 469