CONTENTS
xv
8.2 Measurement Tools and Techniques......................................... 471
8.2.1 Water Level Measurement.............................................. 472
8.2.2 Sea Surface Elevation (Waves) Measurement .... 473
8.2.3 Flow Velocity Measurement.......................................... 478
8.2.4 Flow Visualization.......................................................... 490
8.2.5 Pressure Measurement.................................................... 491
8.2.6 Stress and Force Measurement.................................... 491
8.2.7 Sediment Transport Measurement ............................. 492
8.2.8 Movable-Bed Bathymetry Measurement.................... 493
8.2.9 Laboratory Photo-Documentation ............................. 494
8.3 Wave Data Analysis.................................................................. 494
8.3.1 Data Editing.................................................................... 495
8.3.2 Time Domain (Statistical) Analysis .......................... 496
8.3.3 Frequency Domain (Spectral) Analysis....................... 499
8.3.4 Directional Spectral Analysis....................................... 501
8.4 Wave Reflection Analysis ......................................................... 502
8.4.1 Reflection Analysis of Regular Waves.......................... 503
8.4.2 Reflection Analysis of Irregular Waves....................... 506
8.4.3 Second-Order Reflection Analysis................................ 519
8.5 References..................................................................................... 521
A Metric (SI) System
525
A.l Introduction.................................................................................. 525
A.2 SI Units and Symbols ................................................................ 526
A.3 Units Accepted for Limited Use............................................... 526
A.4 Mass, Force, and Weight............................................................ 526
A.5 SI Prefixes..................................................................................... 529
A.6 Use of SI Units in Technical Writing...................................... 530
A.7 Metric (SI) Conversion Factors............................................... 530
A.8 Temperature Conversion............................................................ 534
A.9 Significant Digits........................................................................ 534
A. 10 Metric Values for Physical Constants....................................... 535
A.11 Rules of Thumb............................................................................ 535
A. 12 References...................................................................................... 537
B Symbols and Notation
539
B.l Roman Symbols ......................................................................... 539
B.2 Greek Symbols............................................................................ 550
Author Index
554
Subject Index
559
xv
8.2 Measurement Tools and Techniques......................................... 471
8.2.1 Water Level Measurement.............................................. 472
8.2.2 Sea Surface Elevation (Waves) Measurement .... 473
8.2.3 Flow Velocity Measurement.......................................... 478
8.2.4 Flow Visualization.......................................................... 490
8.2.5 Pressure Measurement.................................................... 491
8.2.6 Stress and Force Measurement.................................... 491
8.2.7 Sediment Transport Measurement ............................. 492
8.2.8 Movable-Bed Bathymetry Measurement.................... 493
8.2.9 Laboratory Photo-Documentation ............................. 494
8.3 Wave Data Analysis.................................................................. 494
8.3.1 Data Editing.................................................................... 495
8.3.2 Time Domain (Statistical) Analysis .......................... 496
8.3.3 Frequency Domain (Spectral) Analysis....................... 499
8.3.4 Directional Spectral Analysis....................................... 501
8.4 Wave Reflection Analysis ......................................................... 502
8.4.1 Reflection Analysis of Regular Waves.......................... 503
8.4.2 Reflection Analysis of Irregular Waves....................... 506
8.4.3 Second-Order Reflection Analysis................................ 519
8.5 References..................................................................................... 521
A Metric (SI) System
525
A.l Introduction.................................................................................. 525
A.2 SI Units and Symbols ................................................................ 526
A.3 Units Accepted for Limited Use............................................... 526
A.4 Mass, Force, and Weight............................................................ 526
A.5 SI Prefixes..................................................................................... 529
A.6 Use of SI Units in Technical Writing...................................... 530
A.7 Metric (SI) Conversion Factors............................................... 530
A.8 Temperature Conversion............................................................ 534
A.9 Significant Digits........................................................................ 534
A. 10 Metric Values for Physical Constants....................................... 535
A.11 Rules of Thumb............................................................................ 535
A. 12 References...................................................................................... 537
B Symbols and Notation
539
B.l Roman Symbols ......................................................................... 539
B.2 Greek Symbols............................................................................ 550
Author Index
554
Subject Index
559