viii
of coastal engineering tools, and it lists advantages and disadvantages of
the physical modeling approach to problem solving. Chapter 2 covers the
principles of dimensional analysis, including observations on its usefulness
as an analysis technique.
Principles of similitude are the focus of Chapter 3. Geometric, kinematic, and dynamic similitudes are distinguished in the classical sense.
This is followed by introduction of various similitude criteria relevant to
hydraulic models.
Chapter 4 first establishes from basic principles the general similitude
requirements for hydrodynamic models used in coastal engineering, then
the specific cases of short-wave models and long-wave models are considered. Topics include scale effects, scale selection, boundary layer similitude,
model verification, and typical applications.
Physical models are extensively applied in the design of coastal structures, and Chapter 5 presents similitude requirements for coastal structures such as rubble-mound structures, vertical walls, composite structures,
and floating structures. Also included are sections on laboratory and scale
effects, model verification, scale selection, and other modeling considerations.
Chapter 6 presents some of the current thinking regarding movable-bed
models, the most difficult of all physical models. After some introductory
philosophical remarks regarding the “art” of movable-bed modeling, the remainder of the chapter is divided into bedload and suspended load models.
Similitude requirements are developed for both types of movable-bed models according to the primary sediment transport regime, and the inevitable
scale effects are highlighted in the chapter.
Generating gravity waves in laboratory facilities is a very important
component to practically all coastal engineering physical models, and this
topic receives generous coverage in Chapter 7. Beginning with the fundamental equations for wavemaker theory, the chapter presents wavemaker solutions for first-order and second-order regular and irregular waves, solitary
and cnoidal waves, and directional waves. This chapter is mathematically
intensive, despite the fact that the more difficult wavemaker derivations
have been omitted.
The usefulness of coastal engineering physical models depends to a large
extent on obtaining accurate measurements of physical quantities in the
model. Chapter 8 overviews the important subject of laboratory measurements, highlights some of the available instruments used in the laboratory,
and discusses several common wave data analysis techniques.
Each chapter ends with a list of references cited in the chapter. References to papers appearing in the Proceedings of the International Coastal
Engineering Conference are listed by the year of the conference (even num-
of coastal engineering tools, and it lists advantages and disadvantages of
the physical modeling approach to problem solving. Chapter 2 covers the
principles of dimensional analysis, including observations on its usefulness
as an analysis technique.
Principles of similitude are the focus of Chapter 3. Geometric, kinematic, and dynamic similitudes are distinguished in the classical sense.
This is followed by introduction of various similitude criteria relevant to
hydraulic models.
Chapter 4 first establishes from basic principles the general similitude
requirements for hydrodynamic models used in coastal engineering, then
the specific cases of short-wave models and long-wave models are considered. Topics include scale effects, scale selection, boundary layer similitude,
model verification, and typical applications.
Physical models are extensively applied in the design of coastal structures, and Chapter 5 presents similitude requirements for coastal structures such as rubble-mound structures, vertical walls, composite structures,
and floating structures. Also included are sections on laboratory and scale
effects, model verification, scale selection, and other modeling considerations.
Chapter 6 presents some of the current thinking regarding movable-bed
models, the most difficult of all physical models. After some introductory
philosophical remarks regarding the “art” of movable-bed modeling, the remainder of the chapter is divided into bedload and suspended load models.
Similitude requirements are developed for both types of movable-bed models according to the primary sediment transport regime, and the inevitable
scale effects are highlighted in the chapter.
Generating gravity waves in laboratory facilities is a very important
component to practically all coastal engineering physical models, and this
topic receives generous coverage in Chapter 7. Beginning with the fundamental equations for wavemaker theory, the chapter presents wavemaker solutions for first-order and second-order regular and irregular waves, solitary
and cnoidal waves, and directional waves. This chapter is mathematically
intensive, despite the fact that the more difficult wavemaker derivations
have been omitted.
The usefulness of coastal engineering physical models depends to a large
extent on obtaining accurate measurements of physical quantities in the
model. Chapter 8 overviews the important subject of laboratory measurements, highlights some of the available instruments used in the laboratory,
and discusses several common wave data analysis techniques.
Each chapter ends with a list of references cited in the chapter. References to papers appearing in the Proceedings of the International Coastal
Engineering Conference are listed by the year of the conference (even num-