Preface
Since the time when the first crude wave generator was activated in a hydraulic flume, laboratory physical models have played a pivotal role in the
growth of coastal engineering as a profession. Physical models have given
us insight into the complex hydrodynamic regime of the nearshore region,
and they have provided us with reliable and economic design solutions to
support man’s activities in the coastal zone. Many of our present-day engineering design techniques were developed using laboratory measurements,
and numerous theoretical developments have relied on laboratory experiments for validation.
The pioneers in coastal engineering faced many difficult tasks related to
physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. They had to design and
construct laboratory facilities, develop reliable measuring instruments and
techniques, minimize laboratory effects, and understand the scale effects
that arise from imperfect similitude. This was done without the benefit
of past experience in physical modeling. Because of the hard work and
perseverance of many dedicated and talented people over the past 60 years,
physical modeling is well established as a valuable coastal engineering tool,
and it remains a cornerstone of the profession.
As the title suggests this book is about the art and science of physical
modeling as applied in coastal engineering. An attempt has been made
to consolidate much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has
been developed worldwide and reported in the coastal engineering literature. Generally, this book was written to serve as a graduate-level text
for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and
researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation.
Topics covered within the volume’s eight chapters vary in the level of
detail presented. The fundamentals of physical modeling and the more
common applications to coastal engineering are afforded in-depth coverage, whereas some of the more advanced topics are briefly overviewed with
appropriate references cited from the technical literature.
More specifically, Chapter 1 overviews physical modeling in the context
Since the time when the first crude wave generator was activated in a hydraulic flume, laboratory physical models have played a pivotal role in the
growth of coastal engineering as a profession. Physical models have given
us insight into the complex hydrodynamic regime of the nearshore region,
and they have provided us with reliable and economic design solutions to
support man’s activities in the coastal zone. Many of our present-day engineering design techniques were developed using laboratory measurements,
and numerous theoretical developments have relied on laboratory experiments for validation.
The pioneers in coastal engineering faced many difficult tasks related to
physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. They had to design and
construct laboratory facilities, develop reliable measuring instruments and
techniques, minimize laboratory effects, and understand the scale effects
that arise from imperfect similitude. This was done without the benefit
of past experience in physical modeling. Because of the hard work and
perseverance of many dedicated and talented people over the past 60 years,
physical modeling is well established as a valuable coastal engineering tool,
and it remains a cornerstone of the profession.
As the title suggests this book is about the art and science of physical
modeling as applied in coastal engineering. An attempt has been made
to consolidate much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has
been developed worldwide and reported in the coastal engineering literature. Generally, this book was written to serve as a graduate-level text
for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and
researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation.
Topics covered within the volume’s eight chapters vary in the level of
detail presented. The fundamentals of physical modeling and the more
common applications to coastal engineering are afforded in-depth coverage, whereas some of the more advanced topics are briefly overviewed with
appropriate references cited from the technical literature.
More specifically, Chapter 1 overviews physical modeling in the context