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Coastal Engineering: Theory and Practice
high-head, 218
hole, 220, 222, 224, 227
local, 216, 217, 219
maximum depth, 220-221,
227-228
mechanism, 211
protection, 228-229
sea
State, 71, 241, 251, 295, 325
level
mean, 13, 185
rise, 67, 99
change, 15
sédiment
bed, 24-25, 31, 216
cohesionless, 215
cohesive, 215
net drift, 122
budget, 218
cell, 64-67
concentration, 28, 41
dynamics, 69, 112, 215, 295
sédiment transport
cross-shore, 50, 57, 186
longshore/alongshore, 11, 13, 53,
57, 78, 106
volume, 58
shape factor, 30
shields parameter, 34-35, 37, 215, 231
shore protection manual, 11, 42, 142
sills, 217, 230
similitude, 303
Géométrie, 303
Dynamic, 304
Kinematic, 304
SMB prédiction curves, 322
Snell’s law, 5, 332
spectrum
directional spectra, 70, 324
P-M, 309
shape, 185
wave, 321
spits, 15, 17, 65
spurs, 148, 159
stability
coefficient, 169, 172, 180, 182
number, 181, 253
parameters, 180
stagnation
line, 226
pressure, 213
storm, 50, 67, 98, 101
cyclone, 10, 69
size, 68
surge, 21, 50, 67-68, 144
tide, 68
water, 68
wave, 30
surf
width, 75, 76, 119, 148
zone, 40-42, 51-52, 54, 56, 62
zone width, 63, 107-108, 119
surface roughness, 169, 190
suspended
load, 31, 38, 40
particles, 20
swan, 321
swash, 53, 187
zone, 51-52, 336
swell
correction, 64
waves, 13
tidal
discharge, 145
flushing, 111, 144
inlets, 111, 143, 145, 147, 150
prism, 145
range, 38, 104, 119, 159
tide, 43
gauge, 69
level, 42
tombolo, 103-104
training walls, 111, 147, 149-150, 154,
235
tranquil conditions, 253
tsunami, 12, 97, 100, 118, 122, 336
types of breakers
collapsing breakers, 8
plunging breakers, 8, 253