Index
345
spilling breakers, 8
surging breakers, 8, 254
U
updrift, 110, 116, 118, 148, 150
uplift, 229-230, 251
V
velocity
alongshore current, 75
bottom particle, 335
discharge, 154
entrainment, 31
equilibrium, 26
fall, 26-27, 29, 156
flow, 212
longshore current, 62-63, 135
orbital, 41, 221
particle, 8, 297
potential, 334-335
water particle, 4
W
WAM, 321, 324
water particle
accélération, 4
displacement, 4
velocity, 4, 334
wave, 70, 97, 106, 172 , 242
Airy, 31
attack factor, 203
breaking, 1, 63, 106, 256, 321,
336
diffraction, 6, 7, 9, 105
direction, 3, 5, 6, 57, 122, 160,
185, 280
energy convertor, 161
energy, 46, 56, 75, 103, 105, 113,
119, 126, 160, 165, 170, 190,
253, 257, 321
friction factor, 231
momentum flux, 192
prédiction, 323
reflection, 8, 9, 161, 332
refraction, 5-6, 47, 61, 97
rider buoy, 69
set-up, 40, 187
shoaling, 3, 61, 150, 333
spectrum, 321
steepness, 8, 50, 61, 190
-wave interaction, 321
types/classification
breaking, 63, 106, 256, 321,
336
gravity, 126, 304
long, 9, 333 ,336
long-crested, 203
non-breaking, 187, 220
short-crested, 203
solitary, 336
standing, 8, 237
swell, 13
wedge, 263
weirs, 148, 217, 306
wind
direction, 322
field, 322
forces, 43, 264
intensity, 68
profile, 68
radii, 68
speed, 69, 74, 78
vector, 324
Z
zéro moment wave height, 190
zéro shear point, 286