Index
343
non-breaking waves, 187, 220
nourishment, 115
O
offshore
breakwaters, 103, 104
detached breakwaters, 11
reefs, 13
orbital velocity, 41, 221
oscillating water column, 161
overtopping, 105, 132, 185, 194, 196,
204, 242
discharge, 194, 195, 198
P
partial safety factors, 235
particle
accélération, 8, 297
orbit, 297
size correction factor, 64
size, 21, 28
velocity, 8, 297
peak
discharges, 204
frequency, 322
perennial érosion, 97, 119, 120, 130
permeability, 29, 30
phase
speed,335
averaged, 320
resolving, 320
physical model, 104, 159, 160, 172,
195, 303, 307, 309
piles, 210, 219
marine, 264
raking, 264
sheet, 230, 260-261
steel, 264
pipelines, 117, 148, 222, 224, 227
plain cube, 171
plasticity, 25
plasticity index, 25, 112
plunger breakers, 8, 62, 253
porosity, 29, 185, 254
P-M spectrum, 309
R
radiation
boundary condition, 330
condition, 329
stresses, 43, 45, 48
rainfall, 10, 15
Rayleigh distribution, 57, 58
recirculating eddy, 213
réduction factor, 196
reefs, 13, 99, 127, 143
artificial, 103, 113
coral, 113, 124-125
offshore, 13
rock, 144
submerged, 147
Reynolds
number, 26, 33, 227, 300, 306
stresses, 50
roughness
coefficient, 188-189, 195
length, 231, 232
réduction factor, 203
rubble mound, 106, 143, 172
breakwaters, 162, 165, 167, 169
groins, 122
structures, 97, 159, 241, 252
run-up, 52, 105, 122, 130, 186, 187,
189, 191, 193, 206
S
safety factors, 257, 258
salient, 103-105, 126
sand, 14
bar, 111, 145, 148, 153
bypassing, 147
dunes, 68
traps, 147
scale effect, 302, 305
scour, 210
boat, 218
dégradation, 217
failure, 219
general, 216
global or dishpan, 218