342
Coastal Engineering: Theory and Practice
hard measures, 102, 119, 143
hazard, 67
headlands, 13, 65-67, 99, 144, 160
Helmholtz équation, 328, 330
high-head scour, 218
horizontal force, 39, 265
horseshoe vortex, 212-214
Hudson’s formula, 169, 181
hurricane, 71, 74
hydraulic drag, 170
hydrostatic, 45, 247, 252
loading, 237
moment, 247
pressure, 45, 238, 247
I
immersed weight transport rate, 58
imperméable structures, 191, 198
infrastructure, 68
inlet, 145
inshore, 51, 116
integrated
pressure, 44
velocity fluctuations, 44
wave characteristics, 70
Iribarren number, 187
J
jetty, 110, 148, 169, 264
K
Kamphuis method, 93
Kolos, 172, 175, 176, 179, 181
L
lagoons, 15, 17
Laplace’s équation, 328
layer
coefficient, 275, 276, 278
thickness, 185, 190
lee side, 167, 185, 214, 253, 258
LEO - littoral environment
observation, 60
lift, 21, 39
linear wave theory, 2
liquéfaction, 30, 32, 33
littoral
barriers, 118
drift, 11, 12, 54, 102, 103, 117,
145, 148, 150
transport, 11, 40, 41
longshore
current, 53, 55, 62, 63, 106, 135
drift, 110, 135, 150
energy flux factor, 87
energy flux, 58, 60
sédiment transport, 11, 13, 53,
57, 78, 106
transport, 11, 56, 61
long waves, 9, 333, 336
low tide level, 118
M
maintenance dredging, 26, 137
marine piles, 264
mean
discharge, 195, 198
overtopping discharge, 200, 201,
235
sea level, 13, 185
médian
diameter, 232
grain size, 23, 52
particle size, 23
mild slope équation, 327, 328, 330
Minikin method, 243, 245
moisture content, 25
momentum flux, 40, 50, 191
morphological changes, 10
MSL, 15, 160, 187, 197
N
navigation, 145, 147, 218
navigational channel, 20, 148, 150,
159, 235
net
drift, 40, 119
sédiment drift, 122
nonlinear Schrôdinger équation, 336