PAGE
FIGURE
4-29 Berm - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and
Deep Water Steepness.... • •....................... ....
4-82
4-30 Berm - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and
Height to Grain Size Ratio...................................................... • • • 4-83
4-31 Fall Velocity of Quartz Spheres in Water as a Function of
Diameter and Température....................................................... 4-84
4-32 Data Trends - Médian Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope. . . 4-86
4-33 Data - Médian Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope .......................
4-87
4-34 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux in Dimensionless
Form as a Function of Breaker Conditions.....................................4-92
4-35 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux as a Function of
Deepwater Wave Conditions ....................................................................
4-94
4-36 Transport Rate versus Energy Flux Factor for Field and
Laboratory Conditions ...........................................................
4-99
4-37 Relationship Between Wave Energy and Longshore Transport. . 4-100
4-38 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Breaker Height
and Breaker Angle........................................................................................... 4-103
4-39 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Deepwater Wave
Height and Deepwater Angle....................................................... 4-104
4-40 Upper Limit on Longshore Transport Rates.................................................. 4-109
4-41 Typical Barrier Island Profile Shape.......................................................... 4-112
4-42 Event Frequency per 100 Years the Stated Level is Equalled
or Exceeded on the Open Coast, South Padre Island, Texas. 4-114
4-43 Basic Example of Sédiment Budget...........................................................4-120
4-44 Erosion Within Littoral Zone During Uniform Retreat of an
Idealized Profile ...................................................................
4-122
4-45 Sédiment Trapped Inside Old Drum Inlet, N.C................ ....
4-125
4-46 Overwash on Portsmouth Island, N.C........................................................... 4-126
4-47 Growth of a Spit in to Deep Water, Sandy Hook, N.J........................ 4-128
4-48 Dunes Migrating Inland Near Laguna Point, California. . . . 4-130
4-49 Materials Budget for Littoral Zone........................................................... 4-132
4-50 Summary of Example Problem Conditions and Results ..................
4-135
4-51 Variation of y with Distance Along Spit.................................... 4-136
4-52 Growth of Sandy Hook, N.J.-, 1835-1932 .............................................
4-141
4-53 Transport Directions at New Buffalo Harbor Jetty on
Lake Michigan............................................................................ 4-142
4-54 Sand Accumulation at Point Mugu, California ................................ 4-143
4-55 Tombolo and Pocket Beach at Greyhound Rock, California. . . 4-144
4-56 A Nodal Zone of Divergence Illustrated by Sand Accumulation
at Groins, South Shore Staten Island, N.Y.................................. 4-145
4-57 South Shore of Long Island, N.Y., Showing Closed,
Partially Closed and Open Inlets.................................... 4-146
4-58 Four Types of Barrier Islands Offset................................................. 4-148
4-59 Fire Island Inlet, New York - Overlapping Offset.......................4-149
4-60 Old Drum Inlet, North Carolina - Negligible Offset.................. 4-149
XVI
FIGURE
4-29 Berm - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and
Deep Water Steepness.... • •....................... ....
4-82
4-30 Berm - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and
Height to Grain Size Ratio...................................................... • • • 4-83
4-31 Fall Velocity of Quartz Spheres in Water as a Function of
Diameter and Température....................................................... 4-84
4-32 Data Trends - Médian Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope. . . 4-86
4-33 Data - Médian Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope .......................
4-87
4-34 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux in Dimensionless
Form as a Function of Breaker Conditions.....................................4-92
4-35 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux as a Function of
Deepwater Wave Conditions ....................................................................
4-94
4-36 Transport Rate versus Energy Flux Factor for Field and
Laboratory Conditions ...........................................................
4-99
4-37 Relationship Between Wave Energy and Longshore Transport. . 4-100
4-38 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Breaker Height
and Breaker Angle........................................................................................... 4-103
4-39 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Deepwater Wave
Height and Deepwater Angle....................................................... 4-104
4-40 Upper Limit on Longshore Transport Rates.................................................. 4-109
4-41 Typical Barrier Island Profile Shape.......................................................... 4-112
4-42 Event Frequency per 100 Years the Stated Level is Equalled
or Exceeded on the Open Coast, South Padre Island, Texas. 4-114
4-43 Basic Example of Sédiment Budget...........................................................4-120
4-44 Erosion Within Littoral Zone During Uniform Retreat of an
Idealized Profile ...................................................................
4-122
4-45 Sédiment Trapped Inside Old Drum Inlet, N.C................ ....
4-125
4-46 Overwash on Portsmouth Island, N.C........................................................... 4-126
4-47 Growth of a Spit in to Deep Water, Sandy Hook, N.J........................ 4-128
4-48 Dunes Migrating Inland Near Laguna Point, California. . . . 4-130
4-49 Materials Budget for Littoral Zone........................................................... 4-132
4-50 Summary of Example Problem Conditions and Results ..................
4-135
4-51 Variation of y with Distance Along Spit.................................... 4-136
4-52 Growth of Sandy Hook, N.J.-, 1835-1932 .............................................
4-141
4-53 Transport Directions at New Buffalo Harbor Jetty on
Lake Michigan............................................................................ 4-142
4-54 Sand Accumulation at Point Mugu, California ................................ 4-143
4-55 Tombolo and Pocket Beach at Greyhound Rock, California. . . 4-144
4-56 A Nodal Zone of Divergence Illustrated by Sand Accumulation
at Groins, South Shore Staten Island, N.Y.................................. 4-145
4-57 South Shore of Long Island, N.Y., Showing Closed,
Partially Closed and Open Inlets.................................... 4-146
4-58 Four Types of Barrier Islands Offset................................................. 4-148
4-59 Fire Island Inlet, New York - Overlapping Offset.......................4-149
4-60 Old Drum Inlet, North Carolina - Negligible Offset.................. 4-149
XVI