LIST OF TABLES
TABLE
PAGE
1-1
Shoreline Characteristics .........................................................................
1-3
2-1
Distribution of Wave Heights in a Short Train of Waves. . .
2-32
2-2 Example Computations of Values of C./C for Refraction
Analysis..................................................................................................................2-71
3-1 Correction for Sea-Air Température........................................................3-27
3-2 Wind-Speed Adjustment, Nearshore............................................................ 3-29
3-3 Values of K0 or (H/HJ).................................................................................. 3-63
3-4 Computations for Wind Waves Over the Continental Shelf. . .
3-66
3-5 Tidal Ranges......................................................................................................... 3-74
3-6
Fluctuations in Water Levels - Great Lakes System
(1860 through 1970)............................................................... 3-76
3-7
Short-Period Fluctuations in Lake Levels at Selected
Gage Sites...................................................................................... 3-78
3-8 Highest and Lowest Water Levels
........................................................
3-89
3-9 Systems of Units for Storm Surge Computations ...............................
3-108
3-10 Manual Surge Computations .........................................................................
3-116
4-1
Seasonal Profile Changes on Southern California Beaches . . 4-10
4-2 Density of Littoral Materials ................................................................
4-19
4-3 Minerais Occurring in Beach Sand............................................................ 4-20
4-4
Mean Wave Height at Coastal Localities of Conterminous
United States ............................................................................. 4-33
4-5 Storm-Induced Beach Changes ..................................................................... 4-72
4-6 Longshore Transport Rates from U.S. Coasts........................................... 4-90
4-7
Longshore Energy Flux P&, for a Single Periodic Wave in
Any Specified Depth.....................................................................4-97
4-8
Approximate Formulas for Computing Longshore Energy Flux
Factor, P^g, Entering the Surf Zone.................................4-97
4-9
Assumptions for P^g Formulas in Table 4-8..........................................4-98
4-10 Deepwater Wave Heights, in Percent by Direction, off East
Facing Coast of Inland Sea.................................................. 4-105
4-11 Computed Longshore Transport for East - Facing Coast of
Inland Sea...........................................................................................4-106
4-12 Estimate of Gross Longshore Transport Rate for Shore of
Inland Sea...........................................................................................4-110
4-13 Classification of Eléments in the Littoral Zone Sédiment
Budget...................................................................................................................... 4-118
4-14 Sand Budget of the Littoral Zone.................................................................4-133
xvii
TABLE
PAGE
1-1
Shoreline Characteristics .........................................................................
1-3
2-1
Distribution of Wave Heights in a Short Train of Waves. . .
2-32
2-2 Example Computations of Values of C./C for Refraction
Analysis..................................................................................................................2-71
3-1 Correction for Sea-Air Température........................................................3-27
3-2 Wind-Speed Adjustment, Nearshore............................................................ 3-29
3-3 Values of K0 or (H/HJ).................................................................................. 3-63
3-4 Computations for Wind Waves Over the Continental Shelf. . .
3-66
3-5 Tidal Ranges......................................................................................................... 3-74
3-6
Fluctuations in Water Levels - Great Lakes System
(1860 through 1970)............................................................... 3-76
3-7
Short-Period Fluctuations in Lake Levels at Selected
Gage Sites...................................................................................... 3-78
3-8 Highest and Lowest Water Levels
........................................................
3-89
3-9 Systems of Units for Storm Surge Computations ...............................
3-108
3-10 Manual Surge Computations .........................................................................
3-116
4-1
Seasonal Profile Changes on Southern California Beaches . . 4-10
4-2 Density of Littoral Materials ................................................................
4-19
4-3 Minerais Occurring in Beach Sand............................................................ 4-20
4-4
Mean Wave Height at Coastal Localities of Conterminous
United States ............................................................................. 4-33
4-5 Storm-Induced Beach Changes ..................................................................... 4-72
4-6 Longshore Transport Rates from U.S. Coasts........................................... 4-90
4-7
Longshore Energy Flux P&, for a Single Periodic Wave in
Any Specified Depth.....................................................................4-97
4-8
Approximate Formulas for Computing Longshore Energy Flux
Factor, P^g, Entering the Surf Zone.................................4-97
4-9
Assumptions for P^g Formulas in Table 4-8..........................................4-98
4-10 Deepwater Wave Heights, in Percent by Direction, off East
Facing Coast of Inland Sea.................................................. 4-105
4-11 Computed Longshore Transport for East - Facing Coast of
Inland Sea...........................................................................................4-106
4-12 Estimate of Gross Longshore Transport Rate for Shore of
Inland Sea...........................................................................................4-110
4-13 Classification of Eléments in the Littoral Zone Sédiment
Budget...................................................................................................................... 4-118
4-14 Sand Budget of the Littoral Zone.................................................................4-133
xvii