FIGURE
PAGE
3-57 Lake Surface Contours on Lake Okeechobee, Florida
Hurricane, 26-27 August 1949.............................................. 3-129
3-58 Grid System...............................................................................................................3-133
3-59 Lake Erie................................................................................................................... 3-135
3-60 Cross-Section Area and Surface Width - Lake Erie............................ 3-136
3-61 Mean Bottom Profile of Lake Erie..................................................................3-137
3-62 Wind Speed and Direction for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955. 3-138
3-63 Wind Setup Hydrograph for Buffalo and Toledo
- Storm,
March 1955........................................................................................................ 3-141
3-64 Wind Setup Profile for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955.
. . . 3-142
4-1 Typical Profile Changes with Time, Westhampton Beach, N.Y..
4-2
4-2 Three Types of Shoreline......................................................................... 4-3
4-3 Shoreline Erosion near Shipbottom,
N.J................................ 4-7
4-4 Shoreline Accretion and Erosion Near Beach Haven, N.J.. . . 4-8
4-5 Stable Shoreline Near Peahala, N.J................................................... 4-9
4-6
Fluctuations in Location of Mean Sea Level Shoreline on
Seven East Coast Beaches................................................................. 4-12
4-7 Grain Size Scales.....................................................................................4-14
4-8 Example Size Distribution.................................................................. 4-17
4-9 Sand Size Distribution Along the U.S. Atlantic Coast. . . . 4-23
4-10 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Heights for Five Coastal
Segments..................................................................................................................4-31
4-11 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Period for Five Coastal
Segments..................................................................................................................4-32
4-12 Distribution of Significant Wave Heights from Coastal
Wave Gages for 1-year Records................................................................ 4-34
4-13 Nearshore Current System Near LaJolla Canyon, California. . 4-44
4-14 Typical Rip Currents, Ludlam Island, N.J...............................................4-46
4-15 Distribution of Longshore Current Velocities...................................... 4-47
4-16 Measured versus Predicted Longshore Current Speed ...................
4-49
4-17 Coasts in the Vicinity of New York Bight...............................................4-51
4-18 Three Scales of Profiles, Westhampton, Long Island........................ 4-55
4-19 Unit Volume Change versus Time Between Surveys for Profiles
on South Shore of Long Island................................................................ 4-59
4-20 Maximum Wave Induced Bottom Velocity as a Function of
Relative Depth.................................................................................................... 4-62
4-21 Maximum Bottom Velocity from Small Amplitude Theory .... 4-63
4-22 Initiation of Ripple Motion .................................................................... 4-66
4-23 Wave Conditions Producing Maximum Bottom Velocity of
0.5 ft/sec............................................................................................................. 4-67
4-24 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Paraile1 Contours off
Panama City, Florida.......................................................................................4-68
4-25 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Parallel Contours and
Linear Bars off Manasquan, N.J................................................................ 4-69
4-26 Slow Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel at Crâne Beach, Mass.. . 4-76
4-27 Rapid Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel - Lake Michigan .... 4-77
4-28 Typical Berm and Bar Profiles from Prototype Size
Laboratory Wave Tank.......................................................................................4-79
xv
PAGE
3-57 Lake Surface Contours on Lake Okeechobee, Florida
Hurricane, 26-27 August 1949.............................................. 3-129
3-58 Grid System...............................................................................................................3-133
3-59 Lake Erie................................................................................................................... 3-135
3-60 Cross-Section Area and Surface Width - Lake Erie............................ 3-136
3-61 Mean Bottom Profile of Lake Erie..................................................................3-137
3-62 Wind Speed and Direction for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955. 3-138
3-63 Wind Setup Hydrograph for Buffalo and Toledo
- Storm,
March 1955........................................................................................................ 3-141
3-64 Wind Setup Profile for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955.
. . . 3-142
4-1 Typical Profile Changes with Time, Westhampton Beach, N.Y..
4-2
4-2 Three Types of Shoreline......................................................................... 4-3
4-3 Shoreline Erosion near Shipbottom,
N.J................................ 4-7
4-4 Shoreline Accretion and Erosion Near Beach Haven, N.J.. . . 4-8
4-5 Stable Shoreline Near Peahala, N.J................................................... 4-9
4-6
Fluctuations in Location of Mean Sea Level Shoreline on
Seven East Coast Beaches................................................................. 4-12
4-7 Grain Size Scales.....................................................................................4-14
4-8 Example Size Distribution.................................................................. 4-17
4-9 Sand Size Distribution Along the U.S. Atlantic Coast. . . . 4-23
4-10 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Heights for Five Coastal
Segments..................................................................................................................4-31
4-11 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Period for Five Coastal
Segments..................................................................................................................4-32
4-12 Distribution of Significant Wave Heights from Coastal
Wave Gages for 1-year Records................................................................ 4-34
4-13 Nearshore Current System Near LaJolla Canyon, California. . 4-44
4-14 Typical Rip Currents, Ludlam Island, N.J...............................................4-46
4-15 Distribution of Longshore Current Velocities...................................... 4-47
4-16 Measured versus Predicted Longshore Current Speed ...................
4-49
4-17 Coasts in the Vicinity of New York Bight...............................................4-51
4-18 Three Scales of Profiles, Westhampton, Long Island........................ 4-55
4-19 Unit Volume Change versus Time Between Surveys for Profiles
on South Shore of Long Island................................................................ 4-59
4-20 Maximum Wave Induced Bottom Velocity as a Function of
Relative Depth.................................................................................................... 4-62
4-21 Maximum Bottom Velocity from Small Amplitude Theory .... 4-63
4-22 Initiation of Ripple Motion .................................................................... 4-66
4-23 Wave Conditions Producing Maximum Bottom Velocity of
0.5 ft/sec............................................................................................................. 4-67
4-24 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Paraile1 Contours off
Panama City, Florida.......................................................................................4-68
4-25 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Parallel Contours and
Linear Bars off Manasquan, N.J................................................................ 4-69
4-26 Slow Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel at Crâne Beach, Mass.. . 4-76
4-27 Rapid Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel - Lake Michigan .... 4-77
4-28 Typical Berm and Bar Profiles from Prototype Size
Laboratory Wave Tank.......................................................................................4-79
xv