SECTION
PAGE
4.27
SIZE ANALYSES........................................................................................................4-26
4.271
Sieve Analysis................................................................................................... 4-26
4.272
Settling Tube........................................................................................................4-26
4.3
LITTORAL WAVE CONDITIONS.............................................................................. 4-27
4.31
EFFECT OF WAVE CONDITIONS ON SEDIMENT TRANSPORT........................... 4-27
4.32
FACTORS DETERMINING LITTORAL WAVE CLIMATE.........................................4-28
4.321
Offshore Wave Climate..................................................................................... 4-28
4.322
Effect of Bottom Topography........................................................................4-28
4.323
Winds and Storms.............................................................................................. 4-29
4.33
INSHORE WAVE CLIMATE......................................................................................4-29
4.331
Mean Value Data on U.S. Littoral Wave Climates .... 4-29
4.332
Mean vs. Extrême Conditions................................................................ 4-30
4.34
OFFICE STUDY OF WAVE CLIMATE....................................................................4-35
4.35
EFFECT OF EXTREME EVENTS............................................................................ 4-37
4.4
NEARSHORE CURRENTS ....................................................................................
4-39
4.41
WAVE-INDUCED WATER MOTION............................................................................ 4-39
4.42
FLUID MOTION IN BREAKING WAVES .......................................................... 4-42
4.43
ONSHORE-OFFSHORE CURRENTS............................................................................ 4-43
4.431
Onshore-Offshore Exchange......................................................................4-43
4.432
Diffuse Retum Flow................................................................................... 4-45
4.433
Rip Currents................................................................................................. 4-45
4.44
LONGSHORE CURRENTS ..................................................................................... 4-45
4.441
Velocity and Flow Rate.......................................................................... 4-45
4.442
Velocity Prédiction................................................................................... 4-48
4.45
SUMMARY..................................................................................................................... 4-50
4.5
LITTORAL TRANSPORT ..................................................................................... 4-50
4.51
INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................4-50
4.511
Importance of Littoral Transport................................... . . 4-50
4.512
Zones of Transport........................................................................... 4-53
4.513
Profiles....................................................................................................4-54
4.514
Profile Accuracy .................................................................................
4-57
4.52
ONSHORE-OFFSHORE TRANSPORT ................................................................. 4-60
4.521
Sédiment Effects .................................................................................. 4-60
4.522
Initiation of Sédiment Motion.......................................................4-61
4.523
Seaward Limit of Significant Transport ................................
4-65
4.524
Beach Erosion and Recovery ...........................................................
4-70
4.525
Bar-Berm Prédiction ......................................................................... 4-78
4.526
Slope of the Foreshore........................................................................... 4-85
4.53
LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE........................................................................... 4-88
4.531
Définitions and Methods.................................................................... 4-88
4.532
Energy Flux Method............................................................................. 4-89
4.533
Energy Flux Example (Method 3)........................................................4-102
4.534
Empirical Prédiction of Gross Longshore Transport
Rate (Method 4).......................................................................................4-107
4.535
Method 4 Example....................................................................................... 4-108
IX