SECTION
PAGE
3.8
WATER LEVEL FLUCTUATIONS ......................................................................... 3-69
3.81
ASTRONOMICAL TIDES.............................................................................................3-71
3.82
TSUNAMIS.................................................................................................................. 3-71
3.83
LAKE LEVELS..............................................................................................................3-76
3.84
SEICHES.......................................................................................................................3-78
3.85
WAVE SETUP............................................................................................................. 3-80
3.86
STORM SURGE AND WIND SETUP............................................................................3-82
3.861
General................................................................................................................3-82
3.862
Storms.......................................................
3-83
3.863
Factors of Storm Surge Génération.....................................................3-84
3.864
Initial Water Level.....................................................................................3-85
3.865
Storm Surge Prédiction ......................................................................
3-85
REFERENCES AND SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY ..............................................
3-145
CHAPTER 4 - LITTORAL PROCESSES
4.1
INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................... 4-1
4.11
DEFINITIONS............................................................................................................. 4-1
4.111 Beach Profile.........................................................................................................4-1
4.112 Areal View.............................................................................................................4-1
4.12
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS.......................................................................................4-1
4.121 Waves.......................................................................................................................... 4-1
4.122 Currents................................................................................................................. 4-4
4.123 Tides and Surges............................................................................................... 4-5
4.124 Winds.......................................................................................................................... 4-5
4.125
Géologie Factors .......................................................................................... 4-6
4.126 Other Factors........................................................................................................ 4-6
4.13
CHANGES IN THE LITTORAL ZONE...................................................................4-6
4.2
LITTORAL MATERIALS........................................................................................... 4-11
4.21
CLASSIFICATION....................................................................................................4-11
4.211
Size and Size Parameters............................................................................. 4-11
4.212
Composition.............................................................................................................4-18
4.213 Other Characterisitcs..............................................................
4-18
4.22
SAND AND GRAVEL....................................................................................................4-18
4.23
COHESIVE MATERIALS...........................................................................................4-20
4.24
CONSOLIDATED MATERIAL...................................................................................... 4-21
4.241 Rock..........................................................................................................................4-21
4.242 Beach Rock.............................................................................................................4-21
4.243 Organic Reefs........................................................................................................ 4-21
4.25
OCCURRENCE OF LITTORAL MATERIALS ON U.S. COASTS........................... 4-22
4.251 Atlantic Coast................................................................................................... 4-22
4.252 Gulf Coast............................................................................................................ 4-22
4.253 Pacific Coast........................................................................................................4-24
4.254 Alaska.....................................................................................................................4-24
4.255 Hawaii.....................................................................................................................4-24
4.256 Great Lakes............................................................................................................4-24
4.26
SAMPLING LITTORAL MATERIALS............................................................. . * 4-24
viii
PAGE
3.8
WATER LEVEL FLUCTUATIONS ......................................................................... 3-69
3.81
ASTRONOMICAL TIDES.............................................................................................3-71
3.82
TSUNAMIS.................................................................................................................. 3-71
3.83
LAKE LEVELS..............................................................................................................3-76
3.84
SEICHES.......................................................................................................................3-78
3.85
WAVE SETUP............................................................................................................. 3-80
3.86
STORM SURGE AND WIND SETUP............................................................................3-82
3.861
General................................................................................................................3-82
3.862
Storms.......................................................
3-83
3.863
Factors of Storm Surge Génération.....................................................3-84
3.864
Initial Water Level.....................................................................................3-85
3.865
Storm Surge Prédiction ......................................................................
3-85
REFERENCES AND SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY ..............................................
3-145
CHAPTER 4 - LITTORAL PROCESSES
4.1
INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................... 4-1
4.11
DEFINITIONS............................................................................................................. 4-1
4.111 Beach Profile.........................................................................................................4-1
4.112 Areal View.............................................................................................................4-1
4.12
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS.......................................................................................4-1
4.121 Waves.......................................................................................................................... 4-1
4.122 Currents................................................................................................................. 4-4
4.123 Tides and Surges............................................................................................... 4-5
4.124 Winds.......................................................................................................................... 4-5
4.125
Géologie Factors .......................................................................................... 4-6
4.126 Other Factors........................................................................................................ 4-6
4.13
CHANGES IN THE LITTORAL ZONE...................................................................4-6
4.2
LITTORAL MATERIALS........................................................................................... 4-11
4.21
CLASSIFICATION....................................................................................................4-11
4.211
Size and Size Parameters............................................................................. 4-11
4.212
Composition.............................................................................................................4-18
4.213 Other Characterisitcs..............................................................
4-18
4.22
SAND AND GRAVEL....................................................................................................4-18
4.23
COHESIVE MATERIALS...........................................................................................4-20
4.24
CONSOLIDATED MATERIAL...................................................................................... 4-21
4.241 Rock..........................................................................................................................4-21
4.242 Beach Rock.............................................................................................................4-21
4.243 Organic Reefs........................................................................................................ 4-21
4.25
OCCURRENCE OF LITTORAL MATERIALS ON U.S. COASTS........................... 4-22
4.251 Atlantic Coast................................................................................................... 4-22
4.252 Gulf Coast............................................................................................................ 4-22
4.253 Pacific Coast........................................................................................................4-24
4.254 Alaska.....................................................................................................................4-24
4.255 Hawaii.....................................................................................................................4-24
4.256 Great Lakes............................................................................................................4-24
4.26
SAMPLING LITTORAL MATERIALS............................................................. . * 4-24
viii