SECTION
PAGE
2.5
2.51
2.52
2.53
2.54
2.6
2.61
2.62
3.1
3.2
3.21
3.22
3.23
3.24
3.3
3.31
3.32
3.33
3.4
3.41
3.42
3.43
3.431
3.432
3.5
3.51
3.52
3.53
3.54
3.6
3.61
3.62
3.7
3.71
3.72
3.73
WAVE REELECTION.....................................................................................................2-110
GENERAL.................................................................................................................. 2-110
REELECTION FROM IMPERMEABLE, VERTICAL WALLS
(Linear Theory).......................................................................................2-113
REELECTIONS IN AN ENCLOSED BASIN .................................................. 2-115
WAVE REELECTION FROM BEACHES.................................................................2-117
BREAKING WAVES ...............................................................................................
2-120
DEEP WATER................................................................................................... 2-120
SHOALING WATER ........................................................................................... 2-121
REFERENCES AND SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY .............................................
2-129
CHAPTER 3 - WAVE AND WATER LEVEL PREDICTIONS
INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................
3-1
CHARACTERISTICS OF OCEAN WAVES ........................................................... 3-2
SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT AND PERIOD .............................................
3-2
WAVE HEIGHT VARIABILITY........................................................................ 3-5
ENERGY SPECTRA OF WAVES........................................................................ 3-11
DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF WAVES ........................................................... 3-13
WAVE FIELD............................................................................................................. 3-15
DEVELOPMENT OF A WAVE FIELD..................................................................... 3-15
VERIFICATION OF WAVE HINDCASTING .................................................. 3-17
DECAY OF A WAVE FIELD.................................................................................. 3-17
WIND INFORMATION NEEDED FOR WAVE PREDICTION..................................... 3-20
ESTIMATING THE WIND CHARACTERISTICS...................................................3-22
DELINEATING A FETCH.......................................................................................3-27
FORECASTS FOR LAKES, BAYS, AND ESTUARIES ................................ 3-29
Wind Data.........................................................................................................3-29
Effective Fetch........................................................................................... 3-29
SIMPLIFIED WAVE-PREDICTION MODELS............................................................3-33
SMB METHOD FOR PREDICTING WAVES IN DEEP WATER............................ 3-35
EFFECTS OF MOVING STORMS AND A VARIABLE WIND SPEED
AND DIRECTION................................................................................................ 3-40
VERIFICATION OF SIMPLIFIED WAVE HINDCAST PROCEDURES. . . 3-40
ESTIMATING WAVE DECAY IN DEEP WATER......................................................3-42
WAVE FORECASTING FOR SHALLOW WATER ....................................................
3-42
FORECASTING CURVES .................................................................................
3-42
DECAY IN LAKES, BAYS, AND ESTUARIES...................................................3-52
HURRICANE WAVES.................................................................................................... 3-52
DESCRIPTION OF HURRICANE WAVES ........................................................
3-52
MODEL WIND AND PRESSURE FIELDS FOR HURRICANES............................... 3-54
PREDICTION TECHNIQUE ............................................................................. 3-57
vii
PAGE
2.5
2.51
2.52
2.53
2.54
2.6
2.61
2.62
3.1
3.2
3.21
3.22
3.23
3.24
3.3
3.31
3.32
3.33
3.4
3.41
3.42
3.43
3.431
3.432
3.5
3.51
3.52
3.53
3.54
3.6
3.61
3.62
3.7
3.71
3.72
3.73
WAVE REELECTION.....................................................................................................2-110
GENERAL.................................................................................................................. 2-110
REELECTION FROM IMPERMEABLE, VERTICAL WALLS
(Linear Theory).......................................................................................2-113
REELECTIONS IN AN ENCLOSED BASIN .................................................. 2-115
WAVE REELECTION FROM BEACHES.................................................................2-117
BREAKING WAVES ...............................................................................................
2-120
DEEP WATER................................................................................................... 2-120
SHOALING WATER ........................................................................................... 2-121
REFERENCES AND SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY .............................................
2-129
CHAPTER 3 - WAVE AND WATER LEVEL PREDICTIONS
INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................
3-1
CHARACTERISTICS OF OCEAN WAVES ........................................................... 3-2
SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT AND PERIOD .............................................
3-2
WAVE HEIGHT VARIABILITY........................................................................ 3-5
ENERGY SPECTRA OF WAVES........................................................................ 3-11
DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF WAVES ........................................................... 3-13
WAVE FIELD............................................................................................................. 3-15
DEVELOPMENT OF A WAVE FIELD..................................................................... 3-15
VERIFICATION OF WAVE HINDCASTING .................................................. 3-17
DECAY OF A WAVE FIELD.................................................................................. 3-17
WIND INFORMATION NEEDED FOR WAVE PREDICTION..................................... 3-20
ESTIMATING THE WIND CHARACTERISTICS...................................................3-22
DELINEATING A FETCH.......................................................................................3-27
FORECASTS FOR LAKES, BAYS, AND ESTUARIES ................................ 3-29
Wind Data.........................................................................................................3-29
Effective Fetch........................................................................................... 3-29
SIMPLIFIED WAVE-PREDICTION MODELS............................................................3-33
SMB METHOD FOR PREDICTING WAVES IN DEEP WATER............................ 3-35
EFFECTS OF MOVING STORMS AND A VARIABLE WIND SPEED
AND DIRECTION................................................................................................ 3-40
VERIFICATION OF SIMPLIFIED WAVE HINDCAST PROCEDURES. . . 3-40
ESTIMATING WAVE DECAY IN DEEP WATER......................................................3-42
WAVE FORECASTING FOR SHALLOW WATER ....................................................
3-42
FORECASTING CURVES .................................................................................
3-42
DECAY IN LAKES, BAYS, AND ESTUARIES...................................................3-52
HURRICANE WAVES.................................................................................................... 3-52
DESCRIPTION OF HURRICANE WAVES ........................................................
3-52
MODEL WIND AND PRESSURE FIELDS FOR HURRICANES............................... 3-54
PREDICTION TECHNIQUE ............................................................................. 3-57
vii