SECTION
PAGE
2.22
WAVE FUNDAMENTALS AND CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES...........................2-3
2.23
ELEMENTARY PROGRESSIVE WAVE THEORY
(Small-Amplitude Wave Theory)...............................2-7
2.231
Wave Celerity, Length and Period......................................................2-7
2.232
The Sinusoïdal Wave Profile................................................................... 2-10
2.233 Some Useful Fonctions........................................,.......................................2-10
2.234 Local Fluid Velocities and Accélérations .................................... 2-12
2.235 Water Particle Displacements ...............................................................
2-15
2.236
Subsurface Pressure......................................................................................2-22
2.237 Velocity of a Wave Group........................................................................ 2-24
2.238 Wave Energy and Power................................................................................. 2-27
2.239
Summary - Linear Wave Theory............................................................... 2-33
2.24
HIGHER ORDER WAVE THEORIES ............................................. ..... 2-33
2.25
STOKES’ PROGRESSIVE, SECOND-ORDER WAVE THEORY...........................2-36
2.251 Wave Celerity, Length and Surface Profile....................................2-37
2.252 Water Particle Velocities and Displacements............................... 2-37
2.253 Mass Transport Velocity............................................................................ 2-38
2.254 Subsurface Pressure......................................................................................2-39
2.255
Maximum Steepness of Progressive Waves ........................................ 2-39
2.256 Comparison of the First- and Second-Order Théories1 . .
2-39
2.26
CNOIDAL WAVES................................................................................................... 2-47
2.27
SOLITARY WAVE THEORY................................................................................. 2-59
2.28
STREAM FONCTION WAVE THEORY..................................................................... 2-62
2.3
WAVE REFRACTION.............................................................................................. 2-62
2.31
INTRODUCTION................................................................................................... 2-62
2.32
GENERAL - REFRACTION BY BATHYMETRY.................................................2-65
2.321
Procedures in Refraction Diagram Construction -
Orthogonal Method..................................................2-69
2.322
Procedure when a is Less than 80 Degrees............................... 2-71
2.323 Procedure when a is Greater than 80 Degrees - The
R/J Method........................................................................................... 2-73
2.324 Refraction Fan Diagrams........................................................................ 2-73
2.325 Other Graphical Methods of Refraction Analysis ....
2-75
2.326
Computer Methods for Refraction Analysis ...................................
2-75
2.327
Interprétation of Results and Diagram Limitations.
. . 2-75
2.328 Refraction of Océan Waves................................................................... 2-78
2.4
WAVE DIFFRACTION..........................................................................................2-79
2.41
INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................2-79
2.42
DIFFRACTION CALCULATIONS ........................................................................
2-81
2.421
Waves Passing a Single Breakwater..................................................... 2-81
2*422
Waves Passing a Gap of Width Less than Five
Wavelengths at Normal Incidence..............................................2-98
2.423
Waves Passing a Gap of Width Greater than Five
Wavelengths at Normal Incidence................. 2-98
2.424
Diffraction at a Gap-Oblique Incidence ........................................ 2-98
2.43
REFRACTION AND DIFFRACTION COMBINED.................................................2-98
VI
PAGE
2.22
WAVE FUNDAMENTALS AND CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES...........................2-3
2.23
ELEMENTARY PROGRESSIVE WAVE THEORY
(Small-Amplitude Wave Theory)...............................2-7
2.231
Wave Celerity, Length and Period......................................................2-7
2.232
The Sinusoïdal Wave Profile................................................................... 2-10
2.233 Some Useful Fonctions........................................,.......................................2-10
2.234 Local Fluid Velocities and Accélérations .................................... 2-12
2.235 Water Particle Displacements ...............................................................
2-15
2.236
Subsurface Pressure......................................................................................2-22
2.237 Velocity of a Wave Group........................................................................ 2-24
2.238 Wave Energy and Power................................................................................. 2-27
2.239
Summary - Linear Wave Theory............................................................... 2-33
2.24
HIGHER ORDER WAVE THEORIES ............................................. ..... 2-33
2.25
STOKES’ PROGRESSIVE, SECOND-ORDER WAVE THEORY...........................2-36
2.251 Wave Celerity, Length and Surface Profile....................................2-37
2.252 Water Particle Velocities and Displacements............................... 2-37
2.253 Mass Transport Velocity............................................................................ 2-38
2.254 Subsurface Pressure......................................................................................2-39
2.255
Maximum Steepness of Progressive Waves ........................................ 2-39
2.256 Comparison of the First- and Second-Order Théories1 . .
2-39
2.26
CNOIDAL WAVES................................................................................................... 2-47
2.27
SOLITARY WAVE THEORY................................................................................. 2-59
2.28
STREAM FONCTION WAVE THEORY..................................................................... 2-62
2.3
WAVE REFRACTION.............................................................................................. 2-62
2.31
INTRODUCTION................................................................................................... 2-62
2.32
GENERAL - REFRACTION BY BATHYMETRY.................................................2-65
2.321
Procedures in Refraction Diagram Construction -
Orthogonal Method..................................................2-69
2.322
Procedure when a is Less than 80 Degrees............................... 2-71
2.323 Procedure when a is Greater than 80 Degrees - The
R/J Method........................................................................................... 2-73
2.324 Refraction Fan Diagrams........................................................................ 2-73
2.325 Other Graphical Methods of Refraction Analysis ....
2-75
2.326
Computer Methods for Refraction Analysis ...................................
2-75
2.327
Interprétation of Results and Diagram Limitations.
. . 2-75
2.328 Refraction of Océan Waves................................................................... 2-78
2.4
WAVE DIFFRACTION..........................................................................................2-79
2.41
INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................2-79
2.42
DIFFRACTION CALCULATIONS ........................................................................
2-81
2.421
Waves Passing a Single Breakwater..................................................... 2-81
2*422
Waves Passing a Gap of Width Less than Five
Wavelengths at Normal Incidence..............................................2-98
2.423
Waves Passing a Gap of Width Greater than Five
Wavelengths at Normal Incidence................. 2-98
2.424
Diffraction at a Gap-Oblique Incidence ........................................ 2-98
2.43
REFRACTION AND DIFFRACTION COMBINED.................................................2-98
VI