308
Based on results of erosion and accretion during October of 2010 (Fig. 9.26), it
is generated deposit zones in the river mouth product of the highest waves that
arrive to the zone by the effect of cold fronts and even extreme hydrometeorology
phenomena.
There are points with material accumulation up to 14 m, and losses up to 4.9 m
towards the sector of the border of the western groin. The strong meteo-marine
activity creates a change in the local hydrodynamic helped with the change in the
wave direction, which affects the sediment transport to the wetland. For this reason,
during this season, the bar diminishes in some sectors its dimension in plant.
9.5.7 Analysis of Evolution in Plant of Mallorquín Lagoon
One of the most important activities for the professionals who study coastal processes are geomorphologic changes that are produced as result of the establishment
of coastal infrastructure, or in general, natural changes that suffers a littoral environment of a rigid physical configuration of geological origin.
For the changes analysis that commonly presents a beach, it is necessary to know
in detail which is the equilibrium state of the coastal bar Ruiz (2004). This includes
not only a typical beach but also a barrier island that protects a wetland of the wave
action. For that, since some decades ago, it is implementing theoretical model that
allows from the establishment of geometric functions known to determine the final
shape of the beach configuration.
The concept of static equilibrium, proposed by Tanner (1958), is defined by a
confined coast in a condition of natural or artificial border that allows the generation
of a soft beach in harmony with the conditions of maritime climate.
The shape in plant is adjusted to the local wave conditions in order to promote
the sediment transport in the beach and for defining a configuration that achieves the
proper energy dissipation that guarantees the equilibrium state in the time. Apart
from the aforementioned, a water front that presents an unbalance condition, will
vary its shape until finds the proper condition to guarantee the sediment transport
and deposition process that travels to the beach. In this sense, the diffraction and
refraction processes; and in some cases, the reflection take a fundamental role in the
shape that will have the beach.
In relation to the beach shape, there are a lot of definitions in the state of the art.
Krumbein (1947) denominate them as salient beaches, Silvester et al. (1980)
describes them as pocket beaches and Yasso (1965) know them as salient beaches,
to name just a few of them.
According to the described above, the static equilibrium represents that condition where the beach neither gains nor losses sediment, only transports and distributes along the coastline as a result of a symmetry between the isobaths, the coastline
and wave fronts. This, in physical terms, allows concluding that the breaking wave
takes place around the beach profile, thus avoiding excessive erosion. There is not
littoral transport in the beach, and in accordance with Leblond (1979) there is a
G.D. Rivillas-Ospina et al.
Based on results of erosion and accretion during October of 2010 (Fig. 9.26), it
is generated deposit zones in the river mouth product of the highest waves that
arrive to the zone by the effect of cold fronts and even extreme hydrometeorology
phenomena.
There are points with material accumulation up to 14 m, and losses up to 4.9 m
towards the sector of the border of the western groin. The strong meteo-marine
activity creates a change in the local hydrodynamic helped with the change in the
wave direction, which affects the sediment transport to the wetland. For this reason,
during this season, the bar diminishes in some sectors its dimension in plant.
9.5.7 Analysis of Evolution in Plant of Mallorquín Lagoon
One of the most important activities for the professionals who study coastal processes are geomorphologic changes that are produced as result of the establishment
of coastal infrastructure, or in general, natural changes that suffers a littoral environment of a rigid physical configuration of geological origin.
For the changes analysis that commonly presents a beach, it is necessary to know
in detail which is the equilibrium state of the coastal bar Ruiz (2004). This includes
not only a typical beach but also a barrier island that protects a wetland of the wave
action. For that, since some decades ago, it is implementing theoretical model that
allows from the establishment of geometric functions known to determine the final
shape of the beach configuration.
The concept of static equilibrium, proposed by Tanner (1958), is defined by a
confined coast in a condition of natural or artificial border that allows the generation
of a soft beach in harmony with the conditions of maritime climate.
The shape in plant is adjusted to the local wave conditions in order to promote
the sediment transport in the beach and for defining a configuration that achieves the
proper energy dissipation that guarantees the equilibrium state in the time. Apart
from the aforementioned, a water front that presents an unbalance condition, will
vary its shape until finds the proper condition to guarantee the sediment transport
and deposition process that travels to the beach. In this sense, the diffraction and
refraction processes; and in some cases, the reflection take a fundamental role in the
shape that will have the beach.
In relation to the beach shape, there are a lot of definitions in the state of the art.
Krumbein (1947) denominate them as salient beaches, Silvester et al. (1980)
describes them as pocket beaches and Yasso (1965) know them as salient beaches,
to name just a few of them.
According to the described above, the static equilibrium represents that condition where the beach neither gains nor losses sediment, only transports and distributes along the coastline as a result of a symmetry between the isobaths, the coastline
and wave fronts. This, in physical terms, allows concluding that the breaking wave
takes place around the beach profile, thus avoiding excessive erosion. There is not
littoral transport in the beach, and in accordance with Leblond (1979) there is a
G.D. Rivillas-Ospina et al.