34
1 General Problem Formulation
effective mechanisms are the same (G2, G5 , G8 , etc.) and the sphericity is of
no importance (see Chap. 4).
3. The regional scale II (L3 rv 10 3 -10 5 m, T3 rv 10 3 -10 5 s) is a typical
one with medium spatial non-uniformity being taken into account: currents
(Chap. 5) and bottom relief (Chap. 6). It is the most complicated case for both
mechanisms, typical for deep water conditions and mechanisms connected
with wave transformation under the influence of non-uniform currents as
well as in shallow water with bottom dissipation (G6 ). Such models describe
the wave evolution in shallow and tidal seas, extensive continental shelf areas
and open ocean areas with strong currents.
4. The local scale. This is a spatial-temporal scale of wave transformation in non-uniform currents with large velocity gradients, as well as in sea
coastal shallow water areas (with typical local scales of the coastal areas being
L4 rv 10 2 -10 4 m and typical temporal wave evolution scale T4 rv 10 4 s). The
mechanisms of refraction, transformation and bottom friction can be significantly larger in these cases than a four resonance non-linear wave interaction
(see Sect. 4.1) in the spectrum (Gs) and wind wave energy input (G2 ). These
examples are given in Chaps. 5 and 6. The models can also be assumed to
include wave and ice floe interaction mechanisms (G9 ) in the Arctic seas (see
Chap. 7).
5. The small scale. This is the scale of wave transformation in the surf
and marginal ice zone (L5 rv 10-10 2 m, T5 rv 10-10 2 s) with intensive wave
dissipation due to waves breaking in shallow water or in the marginal zone
(see Chap. 7).
The above differentiation of the effects by scales does not exclude solving the problem as a whole, i.e., creating general model complexes, whose
successive implementation (with a smaller-scale model using the results of
a larger-scale calculation as the boundary or initial data) allows numerical
simulation of wind wave evolution in the general case, including all physical
and geometrical factors.
1 General Problem Formulation
effective mechanisms are the same (G2, G5 , G8 , etc.) and the sphericity is of
no importance (see Chap. 4).
3. The regional scale II (L3 rv 10 3 -10 5 m, T3 rv 10 3 -10 5 s) is a typical
one with medium spatial non-uniformity being taken into account: currents
(Chap. 5) and bottom relief (Chap. 6). It is the most complicated case for both
mechanisms, typical for deep water conditions and mechanisms connected
with wave transformation under the influence of non-uniform currents as
well as in shallow water with bottom dissipation (G6 ). Such models describe
the wave evolution in shallow and tidal seas, extensive continental shelf areas
and open ocean areas with strong currents.
4. The local scale. This is a spatial-temporal scale of wave transformation in non-uniform currents with large velocity gradients, as well as in sea
coastal shallow water areas (with typical local scales of the coastal areas being
L4 rv 10 2 -10 4 m and typical temporal wave evolution scale T4 rv 10 4 s). The
mechanisms of refraction, transformation and bottom friction can be significantly larger in these cases than a four resonance non-linear wave interaction
(see Sect. 4.1) in the spectrum (Gs) and wind wave energy input (G2 ). These
examples are given in Chaps. 5 and 6. The models can also be assumed to
include wave and ice floe interaction mechanisms (G9 ) in the Arctic seas (see
Chap. 7).
5. The small scale. This is the scale of wave transformation in the surf
and marginal ice zone (L5 rv 10-10 2 m, T5 rv 10-10 2 s) with intensive wave
dissipation due to waves breaking in shallow water or in the marginal zone
(see Chap. 7).
The above differentiation of the effects by scales does not exclude solving the problem as a whole, i.e., creating general model complexes, whose
successive implementation (with a smaller-scale model using the results of
a larger-scale calculation as the boundary or initial data) allows numerical
simulation of wind wave evolution in the general case, including all physical
and geometrical factors.