Index
abnormal waves (see also, freak waves,
killer waves, and rogue waves)
217,225
action (see also wave action) 21,25
adiabatic invariant 3, 20, 225
Adriatic Sea 140
Agulhas Current 217
air flow (over waves) 11-13,247
Airy function 196, 198
angular distribution: see directional
130,161,179,237,255,277,296,
309
approximation to non-linear energy
transfer
diffusion 84
discrete interaction 83
Arctic Sea 315
ARSLOE experiment 306
Atlantic Ocean 49, 141
atmospheric boundary layer 13, 317
Bering Sea 40
Bessel function 150, 259
Black Sea 39,302
BOMEX experiment 104
bottom
dissipation 28, 34
effect 285
friction 7, 34, 285, 301
relief 254, 293
roughness 292
scattering 291
stress 288
boundary
condition 13, 18-20, 39, 60, 227,
241,288,315,319
layer 3,4,12,25,125,138,140,285,
286
Boussinesq equations 260, 261
BSIE (Black Sea International
Experiment) 302
Bubnov-Galerkin method 339
canonical (conjugate) variables 325,
331
cape roller (see also abnormal waves,
freak waves, and rogue waves)
217
Cartesian system 12
caustic 153, 185, 190, 192, 214, 236,
260,294
collision integral 3, 5, 7, 26, 83, 90,
105,261
conservation law 11, 18, 20, 66
conservation of
mass 11,268
momentum 11
wave action 22
wave density 15
coordinates 16,343
Cartesian 12, 22
cyclic 26
immovable 241,244
local 153,254,268
polar 108
rectangular 35, 38
spherical 28
Coriolis force 11, 13, 18
Courant-Friedrich-Lewy (CFL)
criterion 51, 54, 64, 79
deformation velocity tensor
12
density
of ice
12,225,297
315
of water 11
diffraction of waves 190