4
Introduction
USA (Pierson et al., 1955; Barnett, 1968; Bunting, 1970), in the UK (Pierson
et. al., 1966; Darbyshire & Simpson, 1967; Ewing, 1971), in Japan (Isozaki
& Uji, 1973, 1974; Uji, 1975) and in certain other countries. Some of these
models are used nowadays for wave prediction in practical work.
The mechanisms of wave and wind interaction, dissipation and non-linear
energy transfer were not fully investigated. The source functions in the wave
energy balance equation in discrete-spectral models were usually represented
using certain terms, the other terms being taken into account indirectly by
fitting coefficients. This was, for example, a well-known method used by
W. Pierson, L. Tick and L. Baer (1966) and its modifications were also used
(Inoue, 1966; Darbyshire & Simpson, 1967; Bunting, 1970). The models of
T. Barnett (1968), T. Barnett et al. (1969) and J. Ewing (1971) took into
account the non-linear mechanism of energy transfer in the wind wave spectrum in the source function. It was parameterised by D. Cartwright and represented as a sum of a Fourier-Chebyshev series. The method of T. Barnett
was modified by T. Pasechnik (1975) and used for the first time in Russia for
wave calculation in the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Finland.
Alongside with the development of wind wave mathematical models, theoretical and experimental studies continued as a basis for their verification
and improvement. Full-scale studies at the St. Petersburg Branch of the State
Oceanographic Institute (Davidan et al., 1978), the "SoyuzmorNIIProject"
(Krylov et al., 1976), and the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian
Academy of Sciences (Yefimov & Solovyev, 1979) should be mentioned among
these experimental investigations.
The JONSWAP international experiment (K. Hasselmann et al., 1973)
carried out in 1973 in the North Sea is still attracting great attention. The
obtained data allowed researchers to estimate a number of theoretical results. The peculiarities of wave spectrum development were revealed. The
contribution of separate constituents to the source function describing different physical mechanisms forming a wind wave spectrum were determined.
The use of experimental data and probabilistic methods allowed workers to
estimate more reliably the frequency spectrum (Pierson & Moskowitz, 1964;
Davidan et al., 1969, 1978; K. Hasselmann et al., 1973) and energy angular
distribution (Longuet-Higgins et al., 1963; Krylov et al., 1976; Davidan et
al., 1978; Yefimov & Solovyev, 1979; D. Hasselmann et al., 1980).
From the mid-1970s, intense development of the modern spectral theory
of wind waves began. The theory of wind wave energy input was analysed in
detail and partially supplemented in numerous publications (Snyder & Cox,
1966; Gent & Taylor, 1976; Zaslavskii & Krasitskii, 1976; Yefimov, 1981;
Makin & Chalikov, 1986). In recent years some publications were devoted
to the investigation of the interaction process between air flow and wave in
order to determine the energy flux from wind to waves. The most important
results were obtained by elaborating the model of the boundary layer above
finite-amplitude waves (Chalikov, 1986; Makin 1987, 1989).
Introduction
USA (Pierson et al., 1955; Barnett, 1968; Bunting, 1970), in the UK (Pierson
et. al., 1966; Darbyshire & Simpson, 1967; Ewing, 1971), in Japan (Isozaki
& Uji, 1973, 1974; Uji, 1975) and in certain other countries. Some of these
models are used nowadays for wave prediction in practical work.
The mechanisms of wave and wind interaction, dissipation and non-linear
energy transfer were not fully investigated. The source functions in the wave
energy balance equation in discrete-spectral models were usually represented
using certain terms, the other terms being taken into account indirectly by
fitting coefficients. This was, for example, a well-known method used by
W. Pierson, L. Tick and L. Baer (1966) and its modifications were also used
(Inoue, 1966; Darbyshire & Simpson, 1967; Bunting, 1970). The models of
T. Barnett (1968), T. Barnett et al. (1969) and J. Ewing (1971) took into
account the non-linear mechanism of energy transfer in the wind wave spectrum in the source function. It was parameterised by D. Cartwright and represented as a sum of a Fourier-Chebyshev series. The method of T. Barnett
was modified by T. Pasechnik (1975) and used for the first time in Russia for
wave calculation in the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Finland.
Alongside with the development of wind wave mathematical models, theoretical and experimental studies continued as a basis for their verification
and improvement. Full-scale studies at the St. Petersburg Branch of the State
Oceanographic Institute (Davidan et al., 1978), the "SoyuzmorNIIProject"
(Krylov et al., 1976), and the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian
Academy of Sciences (Yefimov & Solovyev, 1979) should be mentioned among
these experimental investigations.
The JONSWAP international experiment (K. Hasselmann et al., 1973)
carried out in 1973 in the North Sea is still attracting great attention. The
obtained data allowed researchers to estimate a number of theoretical results. The peculiarities of wave spectrum development were revealed. The
contribution of separate constituents to the source function describing different physical mechanisms forming a wind wave spectrum were determined.
The use of experimental data and probabilistic methods allowed workers to
estimate more reliably the frequency spectrum (Pierson & Moskowitz, 1964;
Davidan et al., 1969, 1978; K. Hasselmann et al., 1973) and energy angular
distribution (Longuet-Higgins et al., 1963; Krylov et al., 1976; Davidan et
al., 1978; Yefimov & Solovyev, 1979; D. Hasselmann et al., 1980).
From the mid-1970s, intense development of the modern spectral theory
of wind waves began. The theory of wind wave energy input was analysed in
detail and partially supplemented in numerous publications (Snyder & Cox,
1966; Gent & Taylor, 1976; Zaslavskii & Krasitskii, 1976; Yefimov, 1981;
Makin & Chalikov, 1986). In recent years some publications were devoted
to the investigation of the interaction process between air flow and wave in
order to determine the energy flux from wind to waves. The most important
results were obtained by elaborating the model of the boundary layer above
finite-amplitude waves (Chalikov, 1986; Makin 1987, 1989).