4.6 Exercise 7: Long Waves in a Layered Fluid
85
Fig. 4.17 Configuratio for Exercise 7
4.6.3 Sample Code and Animation Script
The folder “Exercise 7” on the CD-ROM contains the computer codes for this exercise. The “info.txt” gives additional information.
4.6.4 Results
A relatively short forcing period of 10 s creates barotropic surface gravity waves
(Fig. 4.18). Density interfaces oscillate in unison with the sea surface. The phase
speed of the wave is c ≈
√ g H, where H is total depth of the water column. Waves
approaching the riff pile up while their wavelength decreases. The wave therefore
becomes steeper aiming to break. Indeed, wave breaking cannot be simulated with
a layer model. Notice that waves continue to propagate eastward on the lee side of
the riff.
When watching the real sea patiently, riffs or sandbars can be identifie as the
regions with locally increased wave heights and wave breaking. This process is
known as wave shoaling.
Fig. 4.18 Exercise 7. Snapshot of surface and interface displacements for a forcing period of 10 s.
Only the top 40 m of the water column are shown
85
Fig. 4.17 Configuratio for Exercise 7
4.6.3 Sample Code and Animation Script
The folder “Exercise 7” on the CD-ROM contains the computer codes for this exercise. The “info.txt” gives additional information.
4.6.4 Results
A relatively short forcing period of 10 s creates barotropic surface gravity waves
(Fig. 4.18). Density interfaces oscillate in unison with the sea surface. The phase
speed of the wave is c ≈
√ g H, where H is total depth of the water column. Waves
approaching the riff pile up while their wavelength decreases. The wave therefore
becomes steeper aiming to break. Indeed, wave breaking cannot be simulated with
a layer model. Notice that waves continue to propagate eastward on the lee side of
the riff.
When watching the real sea patiently, riffs or sandbars can be identifie as the
regions with locally increased wave heights and wave breaking. This process is
known as wave shoaling.
Fig. 4.18 Exercise 7. Snapshot of surface and interface displacements for a forcing period of 10 s.
Only the top 40 m of the water column are shown