Pilkey, O. H., Neal, W. J., Kelley, J. T., and Cooper, A. G., 2011. The
World’s Beaches. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 283 p.
Sabatier, F., Anthony, E. J., Héquette, A., Suanez, S., Musereau, J.,
Ruz, M.-H., and Regnauld, H., 2009. Morphodynamics of
beach/dune systems: examples from the coast of France.
Geomorphologie, 1(2009), 3–22.
Saravanan, S., Chandrasekar, N., Sheik Mujabar, P., and Hentry, C.,
2011. An overview of beach morphodynamic classification
along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, southern
Tamil Nadu coast, India. Physical Oceanography, 21(2), 57–71.
Shepard, F. P., 1973. Submarine Geology. New York: Harper and
Row, 517 p.
Short, A. D., 1993. Beaches of the New South Wales Coast: A Guide
to the Nature, Characteristics, Surf and Safety. Sydney, NSW:
Australian Beach Safety and Management Program, 358 p.
Short, A. D., 1999. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface
Morphodynamics. Chichester: Wiley, 379 p.
Short, A. D., 2006. Australian beach systems – nature and distribution. Journal of Coastal Research, 22(1), 11–27.
Short, A. D., and Farmer, B., 2012. 101 Best Australian Beaches.
Sydney, NSW: NewSouth Publishing, 222 p.
Short, A. D., and Woodroffe, C. D., 2009. The Coast of Australia.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 288 p.
Swift, D. J. P., Niederoda, A. W., Vincent, C. E., and Hopkins, T. S.,
1985. Barrier island evolution, middle Atlantic shelf, U.S.A. Part
I: shoreface dynamics. Marine Geology, 63, 331–361.
van der Maarel, E. (ed.), 1993. Dry Coastal Ecosystems: Polar
Regions and Europe. Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Elsevier,
Ecosystems of the World, Vol. 2A, 600 p.
Wright, L. D., and Short, A. D., 1984. Morphodynamic variability
of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology, 56,
93–118.
Zenkovich, V. P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. Edinburgh: Oliver and Boyd, 73 p.
Cross-references
Beach Processes
Coastal Engineering
Dunes
Engineered Coasts
Integrated Coastal Zone Management
Placer Deposits
Reef Coasts
Sea Walls/Revetments
Sediment Transport Models
Shelf
Waves
BEACH PROCESSES
Charles W. Finkl
Department of Geosciences, Florida Atlantic University,
Boca Raton, FL, USA
The Coastal Education and Research Foundation,
Coconut Creek, FL, USA
Synonyms
Beach morphodynamics; Coastal processes; Cusp formation; Littoral processes; Surf zone processes
Definition
The term beach processes refers to the collection of processes that are responsible for the formation and maintenance of morphological features and materials that make
up all facets of units comprising the beach per
se. Because the beach has subaerial and submarine components, processes range from the effects of wind to
waves, currents, and tides acting on sediment supply and
redistribution to form beach types. Important processes
include swash run-up and rundown, overtopping, infiltration into the beachface, step generation, bar formation,
cusp development, and so on. Processes and materials
interact in a dynamic manner in continual adjustment to
changing environmental conditions associated with wind
regimes, wave climates, tides, and extreme events such
as storm surge and tsunamis.
Introduction
Beaches are complex systems that at first glance appear to
be simple enough, sediment piled up along the shore. But,
nothing could be farther from the truth as these dynamic
systems have historically defied articulation and comprehension because of their continual short-term modification
in terms of minutes to hours (e.g., Bascom, 1980; Carter,
1988). High-energy events can induce large-scale beach
change that is immediately apparent to an observer. But,
even during quiescent periods, the beach is continually
changing; literally with every wave grains are moved
about the beachface in laminar up- or downrush or by saltation on the berm. Over a longer decadal time frame,
some beach materials in tropical and subtropical regions
may become indurated by calcium carbonate to form
beachrock that in turn provides long-term stability to the
beach. Beach processes are similar in general but very different in detail, depending on the ambient energy conditions and materials present. Much is known about beach
processes, but some exact modes of formation for some
beach features such as beach cusps remain elusive (Guza
and Inman, 1975; Komar, 1997; Davidson-Arnott, 2009;
Pilkey et al., 2011).
The main agents that affect beaches include waves,
tides, currents, and wind (on the dry backbeach area), all
of which interact with the sediment to produce distinctive
beach morphologies (e.g., Bascom, 1954; Pethick, 1984;
Woodroffe, 2002; Davis and FitzGerald, 2004). Breaking
waves obviously interact with the sediment, and their
position along the beachface depends on tidal ranges and
setup or surge. Currents produced by the waves are among
the most important processes that change the beach. These
important sediment-transporting currents include: (1) combined flow currents, (2) longshore currents, (3) rip currents, and (4) onshore-offshore (cross-shore) currents
produced in the swash zone (Davis and FitzGerald, 2004).
Beaches contain noncohesive materials that accumulate
in areas affected by wave action along the perimeter of
a body of water (whether fresh, brackish, marine, or
hypersaline). The material is commonly sand-sized grains
BEACH PROCESSES
47
World’s Beaches. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 283 p.
Sabatier, F., Anthony, E. J., Héquette, A., Suanez, S., Musereau, J.,
Ruz, M.-H., and Regnauld, H., 2009. Morphodynamics of
beach/dune systems: examples from the coast of France.
Geomorphologie, 1(2009), 3–22.
Saravanan, S., Chandrasekar, N., Sheik Mujabar, P., and Hentry, C.,
2011. An overview of beach morphodynamic classification
along the beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari, southern
Tamil Nadu coast, India. Physical Oceanography, 21(2), 57–71.
Shepard, F. P., 1973. Submarine Geology. New York: Harper and
Row, 517 p.
Short, A. D., 1993. Beaches of the New South Wales Coast: A Guide
to the Nature, Characteristics, Surf and Safety. Sydney, NSW:
Australian Beach Safety and Management Program, 358 p.
Short, A. D., 1999. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface
Morphodynamics. Chichester: Wiley, 379 p.
Short, A. D., 2006. Australian beach systems – nature and distribution. Journal of Coastal Research, 22(1), 11–27.
Short, A. D., and Farmer, B., 2012. 101 Best Australian Beaches.
Sydney, NSW: NewSouth Publishing, 222 p.
Short, A. D., and Woodroffe, C. D., 2009. The Coast of Australia.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 288 p.
Swift, D. J. P., Niederoda, A. W., Vincent, C. E., and Hopkins, T. S.,
1985. Barrier island evolution, middle Atlantic shelf, U.S.A. Part
I: shoreface dynamics. Marine Geology, 63, 331–361.
van der Maarel, E. (ed.), 1993. Dry Coastal Ecosystems: Polar
Regions and Europe. Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Elsevier,
Ecosystems of the World, Vol. 2A, 600 p.
Wright, L. D., and Short, A. D., 1984. Morphodynamic variability
of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology, 56,
93–118.
Zenkovich, V. P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. Edinburgh: Oliver and Boyd, 73 p.
Cross-references
Beach Processes
Coastal Engineering
Dunes
Engineered Coasts
Integrated Coastal Zone Management
Placer Deposits
Reef Coasts
Sea Walls/Revetments
Sediment Transport Models
Shelf
Waves
BEACH PROCESSES
Charles W. Finkl
Department of Geosciences, Florida Atlantic University,
Boca Raton, FL, USA
The Coastal Education and Research Foundation,
Coconut Creek, FL, USA
Synonyms
Beach morphodynamics; Coastal processes; Cusp formation; Littoral processes; Surf zone processes
Definition
The term beach processes refers to the collection of processes that are responsible for the formation and maintenance of morphological features and materials that make
up all facets of units comprising the beach per
se. Because the beach has subaerial and submarine components, processes range from the effects of wind to
waves, currents, and tides acting on sediment supply and
redistribution to form beach types. Important processes
include swash run-up and rundown, overtopping, infiltration into the beachface, step generation, bar formation,
cusp development, and so on. Processes and materials
interact in a dynamic manner in continual adjustment to
changing environmental conditions associated with wind
regimes, wave climates, tides, and extreme events such
as storm surge and tsunamis.
Introduction
Beaches are complex systems that at first glance appear to
be simple enough, sediment piled up along the shore. But,
nothing could be farther from the truth as these dynamic
systems have historically defied articulation and comprehension because of their continual short-term modification
in terms of minutes to hours (e.g., Bascom, 1980; Carter,
1988). High-energy events can induce large-scale beach
change that is immediately apparent to an observer. But,
even during quiescent periods, the beach is continually
changing; literally with every wave grains are moved
about the beachface in laminar up- or downrush or by saltation on the berm. Over a longer decadal time frame,
some beach materials in tropical and subtropical regions
may become indurated by calcium carbonate to form
beachrock that in turn provides long-term stability to the
beach. Beach processes are similar in general but very different in detail, depending on the ambient energy conditions and materials present. Much is known about beach
processes, but some exact modes of formation for some
beach features such as beach cusps remain elusive (Guza
and Inman, 1975; Komar, 1997; Davidson-Arnott, 2009;
Pilkey et al., 2011).
The main agents that affect beaches include waves,
tides, currents, and wind (on the dry backbeach area), all
of which interact with the sediment to produce distinctive
beach morphologies (e.g., Bascom, 1954; Pethick, 1984;
Woodroffe, 2002; Davis and FitzGerald, 2004). Breaking
waves obviously interact with the sediment, and their
position along the beachface depends on tidal ranges and
setup or surge. Currents produced by the waves are among
the most important processes that change the beach. These
important sediment-transporting currents include: (1) combined flow currents, (2) longshore currents, (3) rip currents, and (4) onshore-offshore (cross-shore) currents
produced in the swash zone (Davis and FitzGerald, 2004).
Beaches contain noncohesive materials that accumulate
in areas affected by wave action along the perimeter of
a body of water (whether fresh, brackish, marine, or
hypersaline). The material is commonly sand-sized grains
BEACH PROCESSES
47