Internal Undular Bores in the Coastal Ocean
37
The Whitham modulation theory allows this cnoidal wave to vary slowly with
í µí¼, X, that is the wavenumber k, modulus m and mean level d vary slowly with
í µí¼, X. The Whitham modulation equations describing this variation can be obtained
by averaging conservation laws, the original Whitham method, see [28, 29] or by
exploiting the integrability of the constant-coefficient KdV equation, see [21] for
instance. Because here we are concerned with the case when í µí»¼ = í µí»¼(í µí¼) varies slowly
with í µí¼, and so the variable-coefficient KdV equation (13) is not integrable, we will
use the original Whitham method, readily adapted to this present case. A similar
strategy was used by [24] for a frictionally perturbed KdV equation. An alternative
method developed by [22] for a perturbed KdV equation is not available here because
to use it one must make a change of variable in (13) ̃
U = í µí»¼U to generate a KdV equation for ̃
U with a perturbation term of the form í µí»¼ í µí¼ ̃
U∕í µí»¼. But as one of our concerns is
with the situation when í µí»¼ passes through zero, this approach cannot be used here.
As three modulation equations are needed, we supplement (15, 16) with the equation for conservation of waves,
k í µí¼ + (kV) X = 0 .
(30)
The remaining two modulation equations are obtained by inserting the cnoidal wave
solution into the conservation laws (15, 16) and averaging over the phase í µí¼. The
outcomes are
d í µí¼ + í µí»¼M X = 0 , M = <
U
2
2
> ,
(31)
M í µí¼ + P X = 0 , P = <
í µí»¼U
3
3
−
3U
2
X
2
> ,
(32)
where the < ⋯ > denotes a 2í µí¼-average over í µí¼. The expression M is given by
M =
d 2
2
+
a 2
2
{C 4 − b
2
} ,
C 4 =
1
3m 2 K(m)
{3m
2 K(m) − 5mK(m) + 4mE(m) + 2K(m) − 2E(m)} ,
(33)
while that for P is given by
P = í µí»¼{−
2d
3
3
+ 2dM + a
3
{−
2b
3
3
+
(1 − m)b
2m
+ (b +
1 − 2m
2m
) C 4 +
5
6
C 6 } ,
C 6 =
1
15m 3 K(m)
{15m
3 K(m) − 34m
2 K(m) + 23m
2 E(m)
+27mK(m) − 23mE(m) − 8K(m) + 8E(m)} .
(34)
37
The Whitham modulation theory allows this cnoidal wave to vary slowly with
í µí¼, X, that is the wavenumber k, modulus m and mean level d vary slowly with
í µí¼, X. The Whitham modulation equations describing this variation can be obtained
by averaging conservation laws, the original Whitham method, see [28, 29] or by
exploiting the integrability of the constant-coefficient KdV equation, see [21] for
instance. Because here we are concerned with the case when í µí»¼ = í µí»¼(í µí¼) varies slowly
with í µí¼, and so the variable-coefficient KdV equation (13) is not integrable, we will
use the original Whitham method, readily adapted to this present case. A similar
strategy was used by [24] for a frictionally perturbed KdV equation. An alternative
method developed by [22] for a perturbed KdV equation is not available here because
to use it one must make a change of variable in (13) ̃
U = í µí»¼U to generate a KdV equation for ̃
U with a perturbation term of the form í µí»¼ í µí¼ ̃
U∕í µí»¼. But as one of our concerns is
with the situation when í µí»¼ passes through zero, this approach cannot be used here.
As three modulation equations are needed, we supplement (15, 16) with the equation for conservation of waves,
k í µí¼ + (kV) X = 0 .
(30)
The remaining two modulation equations are obtained by inserting the cnoidal wave
solution into the conservation laws (15, 16) and averaging over the phase í µí¼. The
outcomes are
d í µí¼ + í µí»¼M X = 0 , M = <
U
2
2
> ,
(31)
M í µí¼ + P X = 0 , P = <
í µí»¼U
3
3
−
3U
2
X
2
> ,
(32)
where the < ⋯ > denotes a 2í µí¼-average over í µí¼. The expression M is given by
M =
d 2
2
+
a 2
2
{C 4 − b
2
} ,
C 4 =
1
3m 2 K(m)
{3m
2 K(m) − 5mK(m) + 4mE(m) + 2K(m) − 2E(m)} ,
(33)
while that for P is given by
P = í µí»¼{−
2d
3
3
+ 2dM + a
3
{−
2b
3
3
+
(1 − m)b
2m
+ (b +
1 − 2m
2m
) C 4 +
5
6
C 6 } ,
C 6 =
1
15m 3 K(m)
{15m
3 K(m) − 34m
2 K(m) + 23m
2 E(m)
+27mK(m) − 23mE(m) − 8K(m) + 8E(m)} .
(34)
