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Contents
7.6.2 Physical Mechanisms Linking El Nino and Southern Oscillation Phenomena . . . . . . . .
226
7.6.3 EI Nino of 1982-1983 . . . . . . . .
229
7.6.4 Observing and Forecasting EI Nino
7.7 Continental Shelf Flow . . . . . . . . . . .
7.7.1 Overview of Continental Shelf Waters.
231
234
234
7.7.2 Western Boundary Currents . . . . .
235
7.7.3 Eastern Boundary Currents and Coastal Upwelling
237
7.7.4 Other Examples of Upwelling
243
7.8 Coastal Water Movement. . . . . . . .
244
7.8.1 An Overview of Coastal Flows.
244
7.8.2 Circulation in the Surf Zone ..
246
8 Transport in the Oceans and Coastal Zone
253
8.1 Introduction...........
253
8.2 Basics of Diffusion . . . . . . .
254
8.2.1 Randomness of Diffusion
254
8.2.2 Random Walks . . . . .
255
8.2.3 Fick's Equation of Diffusion
257
8.3 Concentration of Matter for Molecular and TUrbulent Diffusion. 259
8.3.1 Concentration of Matter for Molecular Diffusion
259
8.3.2 Concentration of Matter for TUrbulent Diffusion . ..
263
8.3.3 Shear Flow Dispersion . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .
267
8.3.4 Some Workable Solutions of the Diffusion Equations.
271
8.4 Diffusion and Mixing in the Ocean ...
281
8.4.1 Introduction................
281
8.4.2 Diffusion of Tracers in the Ocean . . . . . .
282
8.4.3 Diffusion in a Continuously Stratified Ocean
283
8.4.4 Double Diffusion and Salt Fingers .
284
8.5 Diffusion and Mixing in Estuaries . . .
286
8.5.1 Introduction and Classification
286
8.5.2 Some Simple Mixing Concepts.
288
8.5.3 Salt-Wedge Estuary. . . . . . .
290
8.5.4 Dynamics of Partly Mixed Estuaries
292
8.5.5 Dynamics of a Well-Mixed Estuary
296
8.6 Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone . .
297
8.6.1 Longshore Sediment Transport. . . .
299
8.6.2 Sediment Budget and Depth Changes.
302
9 Experimental Methods in Fluid Mechanics
9.1 Introduction.............. . . . .
9.2 Field and Laboratory Measurement Techniques
9.2.1 Temperature . . . . . . .
9.2.2 Salinity . . . . . . . . .
9.2.3 Sea Level Measurement.
305
305
306
306
307
307