The Cosmeceutical Properties of Compounds Derived from Marine Algae 199
and increase the rate of virtually all the chemical reactions within cells. Maintaining ideal mineral levels
will improve overall cell functions and prevent cellular imbalances. Not only does seawater provide a
balanced supplement of minerals for human cells, it also supplies the ideal nutrient-rich environment for
marine algae growth. As marine plants grow, they absorb and concentrate nutrients that are also beneficial
to the human body. Algae are able to produce a variety of compounds in response to their environment,
with some acting as defence mechanisms against predators.
Distinguishing between the different algal groups can be difficult as they often lack gross morphological
features. There are more than 17000 marine algae species recorded to date, which may generally be divided
into two main categories, macroalgae and microalgae. Macroalgae are a diverse family of marine plants
that are for simplicity, classified according to the color of the pigments they use for photosynthesis: brown
(Phaeophyta), red (Rhodophyta), and green (Chlorophyta) algae. Microalgae, such as blue-green algae
(Rasmussen and Morrissey 2007), have traditionally been considered as algae. However, they are now
commonly identified as cyanobacteria. From an ecological perspective they are algae, but from the cellstructural perspective, they are Gram-negative bacteria (Berner 1993).
Algal extracts have been used in cosmetic for mulations for many decades as an excipient (i.e., viscositycontrolling ingredient), or as a therapeutic agent (i.e., as a moisturizer, emollient, or skin conditioning
agent) due to their intrinsic stability and physical and bioactive properties (Kim et al. 2005). They require
minimal light, water, and nutrients for growth, and do not require the use of arable land for cultivation. The
range of chemicals, agrichemicals, and pharmaceuticals that can be isolated in commercially significant
quantities from macroalgae is remarkable. Given that there is a marked similarity between the structure
of human skin and the cellular structure of algae, it is not surprising that many compounds derived from
marine algae are also beneficial in improving human skin function (Athukorala et al. 2006). Presently,
compounds from red and brown algae are the ones that are most commonly used in cosmetic formulations
and toiletries.
Environmental factors such as UV radiation, wind, and smoke, combined with chronological ageing
and degeneration of the skin barrier, contribute to fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, sunspots, and increased
skin coarseness. Some of the bioactive ingredients of microalgae, such as alguronic acid, a heterogeneous
mix of exopolysaccharides, have been claimed to exhibit anti-ageing benefits that hinder and combat
these signs of aging (Coragliotti et al. 2012). Microalgae exopolysaccharides are high molecular weight
carbohydrate polymers that make up a substantial component of the extracellular polymers surrounding
most microbial cells in the marine environment.
Many components from marine algae have been found to have both pharmaceutical and cosmetic like
benefits, giving rise to the term “cosmeceuticals”. The term “cosmeceutical” describes skin care products
that fall in between the categories of cosmetics and drugs. At a fundamental level, cosmetics are products
that affect the appearance of the skin, while drugs affect the structure and function of the skin. Hence,
products considered as cosmeceuticals do physiologically affect the structure and function of the skin (druglike effects), but are marketed using skin appearance based claims. Cosmeceutical formulations contain
active ingredients such as vitamins, phytochemicals, enzymes, antioxidants, and essential oils, which are
incorporated into creams, lotions, and ointments. Since a diverse range of these types of compounds have
been found in marine algae, there is an increasing interest in marine algae as sources of effective active
ingredients for cosmeceutical skin care products (Kim et al. 2008).
There are a large number of active components in macroalgae, including bioactive carbohydrates
such as fucoidan and laminarin, pigments such as polyphloroglucinols and fucoxanthin (Yan et al. 1999;
Shiratori et al. 2005), and minerals, including iodine. Many of these compounds have antioxidant properties
and contribute to the antioxi dant nature of aqueous and non-aqueous extracts. Glutathione, an antioxidant
sometimes used as an orally delivered skin whitening agent, is found in all macroalgae. Kakinuma et al.
reported the glutathione content of 37 species of macroalgae. Most had glutathione concentrations ranging
from 0.1–200 mg/100 g (dry weight). However, two brown algae, Sargassum thunbergii and Ishige
okamurai, had exceptionally high of glutathione concentrations (1432 and 3082 mg/100 g (dry weight)
respectively) (Kakinuma et al. 2001). Additionally, omega-3 fatty acids such as stearidonic acid and
hexadecatetraenoic acid are found in such edible marine algae as Undaria pinnatifida and Ulva, contributing
up to 40% of the plants’ total fatty acid content (Ishihara et al. 2000). Fucoidan fractions, alginates, and
and increase the rate of virtually all the chemical reactions within cells. Maintaining ideal mineral levels
will improve overall cell functions and prevent cellular imbalances. Not only does seawater provide a
balanced supplement of minerals for human cells, it also supplies the ideal nutrient-rich environment for
marine algae growth. As marine plants grow, they absorb and concentrate nutrients that are also beneficial
to the human body. Algae are able to produce a variety of compounds in response to their environment,
with some acting as defence mechanisms against predators.
Distinguishing between the different algal groups can be difficult as they often lack gross morphological
features. There are more than 17000 marine algae species recorded to date, which may generally be divided
into two main categories, macroalgae and microalgae. Macroalgae are a diverse family of marine plants
that are for simplicity, classified according to the color of the pigments they use for photosynthesis: brown
(Phaeophyta), red (Rhodophyta), and green (Chlorophyta) algae. Microalgae, such as blue-green algae
(Rasmussen and Morrissey 2007), have traditionally been considered as algae. However, they are now
commonly identified as cyanobacteria. From an ecological perspective they are algae, but from the cellstructural perspective, they are Gram-negative bacteria (Berner 1993).
Algal extracts have been used in cosmetic for mulations for many decades as an excipient (i.e., viscositycontrolling ingredient), or as a therapeutic agent (i.e., as a moisturizer, emollient, or skin conditioning
agent) due to their intrinsic stability and physical and bioactive properties (Kim et al. 2005). They require
minimal light, water, and nutrients for growth, and do not require the use of arable land for cultivation. The
range of chemicals, agrichemicals, and pharmaceuticals that can be isolated in commercially significant
quantities from macroalgae is remarkable. Given that there is a marked similarity between the structure
of human skin and the cellular structure of algae, it is not surprising that many compounds derived from
marine algae are also beneficial in improving human skin function (Athukorala et al. 2006). Presently,
compounds from red and brown algae are the ones that are most commonly used in cosmetic formulations
and toiletries.
Environmental factors such as UV radiation, wind, and smoke, combined with chronological ageing
and degeneration of the skin barrier, contribute to fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, sunspots, and increased
skin coarseness. Some of the bioactive ingredients of microalgae, such as alguronic acid, a heterogeneous
mix of exopolysaccharides, have been claimed to exhibit anti-ageing benefits that hinder and combat
these signs of aging (Coragliotti et al. 2012). Microalgae exopolysaccharides are high molecular weight
carbohydrate polymers that make up a substantial component of the extracellular polymers surrounding
most microbial cells in the marine environment.
Many components from marine algae have been found to have both pharmaceutical and cosmetic like
benefits, giving rise to the term “cosmeceuticals”. The term “cosmeceutical” describes skin care products
that fall in between the categories of cosmetics and drugs. At a fundamental level, cosmetics are products
that affect the appearance of the skin, while drugs affect the structure and function of the skin. Hence,
products considered as cosmeceuticals do physiologically affect the structure and function of the skin (druglike effects), but are marketed using skin appearance based claims. Cosmeceutical formulations contain
active ingredients such as vitamins, phytochemicals, enzymes, antioxidants, and essential oils, which are
incorporated into creams, lotions, and ointments. Since a diverse range of these types of compounds have
been found in marine algae, there is an increasing interest in marine algae as sources of effective active
ingredients for cosmeceutical skin care products (Kim et al. 2008).
There are a large number of active components in macroalgae, including bioactive carbohydrates
such as fucoidan and laminarin, pigments such as polyphloroglucinols and fucoxanthin (Yan et al. 1999;
Shiratori et al. 2005), and minerals, including iodine. Many of these compounds have antioxidant properties
and contribute to the antioxi dant nature of aqueous and non-aqueous extracts. Glutathione, an antioxidant
sometimes used as an orally delivered skin whitening agent, is found in all macroalgae. Kakinuma et al.
reported the glutathione content of 37 species of macroalgae. Most had glutathione concentrations ranging
from 0.1–200 mg/100 g (dry weight). However, two brown algae, Sargassum thunbergii and Ishige
okamurai, had exceptionally high of glutathione concentrations (1432 and 3082 mg/100 g (dry weight)
respectively) (Kakinuma et al. 2001). Additionally, omega-3 fatty acids such as stearidonic acid and
hexadecatetraenoic acid are found in such edible marine algae as Undaria pinnatifida and Ulva, contributing
up to 40% of the plants’ total fatty acid content (Ishihara et al. 2000). Fucoidan fractions, alginates, and