137
customers. Textile wet processing, i.e. dyeing and fi nishing, is known to cause
environmental impacts such as water pollution. Spun-dyed fi bers are developed
against this background since these fi bers avoid the conventional dyeing process of
fabrics. A detailed LCA for the environmental impacts of conventionally dyed
fabrics and spun-dyed fabrics made of wood-based modal fi bers can be found in
literature (Terinte et al. 2014 ).
4.1.1 Context and Drivers of Spun-Dyed Modal Fabrics
Figure 11.3 shows the relevant context and drivers of the spun-dyed fi ber innovation. The most important driver is global population growth, which creates more
demand for clothes with lower environmental impacts. The textile supply chains are
mostly located in Asia where air pollution, water pollution and water scarcity
problems are rampant. There is an increasing number of legislations targeting the
textile industry in Asia (in order to raise the standards of practices), from the EU
(e.g. REACH) to prohibit certain dyes and from selected European countries like
Sweden that is planning to impose taxes on chemicals in textiles. International
NGOs such as Greenpeace have criticized international apparel brands and retailers
for the poor performance of their supply chain partners such as laundries and dyeing
mills. The business context of the textile industry is also changing due to the initiatives such as Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) that creates tools and awareness
to reduce textile supply chain impacts. These initiatives and visibility to NGOs and
consumers have created impetus for brands and retailers to be more sustainability
oriented. Consequently, the sustainability agenda of B2B companies such as fi ber
producers are primarily driven by customer (brands and retailers) demands rather
than consumers and NGOs. Increased scarcity raises the costs of water and power in
Asian countries, increasing production costs. Since most of the textile industry has
moved to Asia, EU producers need to fi nd innovative ways to be competitive in the
global market. All these drivers are important for the business functions of the fi ber
producer because they infl uence business decisions and help to contextualize the
spin- dyeing innovation.
With these issues in mind, the LCA on spun-dyed fabrics can help business
development and marketing.
4.1.2 Results of the Spun-Dyed Fabrics LCA Study
From the LCA it was found that, across all impact categories studied, spun-dyed
fabrics cause only half to one third of the environmental impacts compared to
conventionally dyed fabrics. Sensitivity analyses showed that the relative benefi ts of
spin-dyeing, that nowadays takes places in Austria, are higher if it replaces conventional dyeing in countries like China or the USA where electricity grids and heat
sources are predominantly coal-based. The liquor ratio and the number of washing cycles
infl uence the results but do not alter the conclusions. Due to the comparatively very
11 Sustainable Value Creation with Life Cycle Management
customers. Textile wet processing, i.e. dyeing and fi nishing, is known to cause
environmental impacts such as water pollution. Spun-dyed fi bers are developed
against this background since these fi bers avoid the conventional dyeing process of
fabrics. A detailed LCA for the environmental impacts of conventionally dyed
fabrics and spun-dyed fabrics made of wood-based modal fi bers can be found in
literature (Terinte et al. 2014 ).
4.1.1 Context and Drivers of Spun-Dyed Modal Fabrics
Figure 11.3 shows the relevant context and drivers of the spun-dyed fi ber innovation. The most important driver is global population growth, which creates more
demand for clothes with lower environmental impacts. The textile supply chains are
mostly located in Asia where air pollution, water pollution and water scarcity
problems are rampant. There is an increasing number of legislations targeting the
textile industry in Asia (in order to raise the standards of practices), from the EU
(e.g. REACH) to prohibit certain dyes and from selected European countries like
Sweden that is planning to impose taxes on chemicals in textiles. International
NGOs such as Greenpeace have criticized international apparel brands and retailers
for the poor performance of their supply chain partners such as laundries and dyeing
mills. The business context of the textile industry is also changing due to the initiatives such as Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) that creates tools and awareness
to reduce textile supply chain impacts. These initiatives and visibility to NGOs and
consumers have created impetus for brands and retailers to be more sustainability
oriented. Consequently, the sustainability agenda of B2B companies such as fi ber
producers are primarily driven by customer (brands and retailers) demands rather
than consumers and NGOs. Increased scarcity raises the costs of water and power in
Asian countries, increasing production costs. Since most of the textile industry has
moved to Asia, EU producers need to fi nd innovative ways to be competitive in the
global market. All these drivers are important for the business functions of the fi ber
producer because they infl uence business decisions and help to contextualize the
spin- dyeing innovation.
With these issues in mind, the LCA on spun-dyed fabrics can help business
development and marketing.
4.1.2 Results of the Spun-Dyed Fabrics LCA Study
From the LCA it was found that, across all impact categories studied, spun-dyed
fabrics cause only half to one third of the environmental impacts compared to
conventionally dyed fabrics. Sensitivity analyses showed that the relative benefi ts of
spin-dyeing, that nowadays takes places in Austria, are higher if it replaces conventional dyeing in countries like China or the USA where electricity grids and heat
sources are predominantly coal-based. The liquor ratio and the number of washing cycles
infl uence the results but do not alter the conclusions. Due to the comparatively very
11 Sustainable Value Creation with Life Cycle Management