Life Cycle Management can help to realise the potential environmental benefits
of such changes and prioritise actions. Roos’ work also identifies that, for climate
change potential, there is little contribution from activity within Sweden, with the
life cycle impacts dominated by yarn spinning, weaving and dyeing. However, in
the UK, consumer care contributes significantly to the overall footprint.
Regionalised tools, such as the ECAP Footprint tool, are therefore required to help
businesses to make such changes based on representative information relevant for
the appropriate supply chain and consumer.
Life Cycle Management is important at every decision point in the life cycle of
clothing. Fierro [3] and Holmquist [4] both presented the role of life cycle management in choosing a raincoating, substituting out the most hazardous chemicals.
Any substitution has the potential to lead to regrettable substitutions, and therefore
needs to be holistic, and also ensure that the product functionality is maintained.
Durable water and oil repellents (DWOR) are textile finishings which impart water
(and oil) repellency, with three main chemistry types. Whilst the Long-chain perand polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are being phased out, the alternatives also
give rise to emissions of hazardous substances.
Hanna Holmquist presented an ecotoxicity assessment of the three main
chemistry types showing little difference between them, though USEtox does not
capture PFAS hazards. A life cycle perspective however reveals that the ecotoxicity
associated with the DWOR is dwarfed by the fabric manufacture, and the fabric and
the membrane is important for Global Warming Potential. Change in the length of
the product life therefore have the potential for large effects on the total potential
ecotoxicity impact. This can be achieved through re-impregnation of DWOR,
which has a relatively small contribution to ecotoxicity potential.
Julio Fierro presented the Life MIDWOR project and draft LCA results.
DWORs have a complex structure (comb-like) with several side chains. Over time,
perfluorinated chains are severed from DWOR structure and released to the environment. Consequently, PFC degradation compounds can be detected all over the
world, with most originating from production sites. Their stability means the
compounds can bio-accumulate, with concerns relating to potential mutagenic,
carcinogenic and reprotoxic impacts. The MIDWOR project explores six different
textile industries with a common finishing process. Two finishing products were
considered: Short-chain DWOR and Silicone based DWOR. The draft LCA results
suggest little difference between these when the impact of fabric production is also
included, with differences only becoming apparent when considering finishing only.
This is in line with Holmquist’s conclusions.
In order to apply life cycle management principles to DWOR there is a need for
further information on their production. The composition of DWORs is not always
specified in Safety datasheets and is often a trade secret. These barriers must be
overcome for life cycle management principles to be applied. In addition, life cycle
methodologies do not reflect the impact of PFCs. Only the Ecological Scarcity
methodology was identified as including the impact of PFCs, and this yields
notably different results to other methodologies based on the same data.
Life Cycle Management and Circular Economy …
63
of such changes and prioritise actions. Roos’ work also identifies that, for climate
change potential, there is little contribution from activity within Sweden, with the
life cycle impacts dominated by yarn spinning, weaving and dyeing. However, in
the UK, consumer care contributes significantly to the overall footprint.
Regionalised tools, such as the ECAP Footprint tool, are therefore required to help
businesses to make such changes based on representative information relevant for
the appropriate supply chain and consumer.
Life Cycle Management is important at every decision point in the life cycle of
clothing. Fierro [3] and Holmquist [4] both presented the role of life cycle management in choosing a raincoating, substituting out the most hazardous chemicals.
Any substitution has the potential to lead to regrettable substitutions, and therefore
needs to be holistic, and also ensure that the product functionality is maintained.
Durable water and oil repellents (DWOR) are textile finishings which impart water
(and oil) repellency, with three main chemistry types. Whilst the Long-chain perand polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are being phased out, the alternatives also
give rise to emissions of hazardous substances.
Hanna Holmquist presented an ecotoxicity assessment of the three main
chemistry types showing little difference between them, though USEtox does not
capture PFAS hazards. A life cycle perspective however reveals that the ecotoxicity
associated with the DWOR is dwarfed by the fabric manufacture, and the fabric and
the membrane is important for Global Warming Potential. Change in the length of
the product life therefore have the potential for large effects on the total potential
ecotoxicity impact. This can be achieved through re-impregnation of DWOR,
which has a relatively small contribution to ecotoxicity potential.
Julio Fierro presented the Life MIDWOR project and draft LCA results.
DWORs have a complex structure (comb-like) with several side chains. Over time,
perfluorinated chains are severed from DWOR structure and released to the environment. Consequently, PFC degradation compounds can be detected all over the
world, with most originating from production sites. Their stability means the
compounds can bio-accumulate, with concerns relating to potential mutagenic,
carcinogenic and reprotoxic impacts. The MIDWOR project explores six different
textile industries with a common finishing process. Two finishing products were
considered: Short-chain DWOR and Silicone based DWOR. The draft LCA results
suggest little difference between these when the impact of fabric production is also
included, with differences only becoming apparent when considering finishing only.
This is in line with Holmquist’s conclusions.
In order to apply life cycle management principles to DWOR there is a need for
further information on their production. The composition of DWORs is not always
specified in Safety datasheets and is often a trade secret. These barriers must be
overcome for life cycle management principles to be applied. In addition, life cycle
methodologies do not reflect the impact of PFCs. Only the Ecological Scarcity
methodology was identified as including the impact of PFCs, and this yields
notably different results to other methodologies based on the same data.
Life Cycle Management and Circular Economy …
63