However, these are just some of the challenges faced. At the LCM2017 conference, Sandra Roos from the Swedish research institute Swerea presented the
toxicity footprint of Swedish Clothing Consumption [2]. Many environmental
organizations have reported on the damage caused by dyeing and finishing of
textiles, both humans and the environment. In addition, the use of pesticides in
cotton production accounts for 25% of global pesticide use, despite the crop
occupying only 2% of agricultural land. Roos et al. attempted to compare the
toxicity impact of these three different stages. As part of the research Roos et al.
identified only 7 out of 58 LCA studies focussed on textiles had included textile
chemicals in the inventory, and of these only 4 studies had also developed LCIA to
match these flows. It was therefore necessary to create additional inventories and
develop characterisation factors. Characterisation factors are complex to develop; a
data source selection strategy is recommended in order to keep consistency. The
factors developed were combined with data on Swedish clothing consumption. The
results suggest that eco-toxicity associated with wet treatment (dyeing and finishing) was one order of magnitude higher than for the cotton cultivation (all toxicity
in the fibre production stems from cotton cultivation). This shows the value of Life
Cycle Management and the need to understand life cycle stages to address priority
issues.
2 Framing and Responding to the Challenge
The challenges may be framed and addressed in terms of a number of initiatives,
such as the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, the European
Commission’s Circular Economy Package, Product Environmental Footprint
Initiative, and EU Garment Initiative, as well as Action Plans led by National
Governments and Industry Associations.
Within each of these frameworks, different options are open to businesses across
the clothing value chain. A key challenge is selecting the right strategy for the
business, their products and their customers: they may consider increased durability, recyclability, or look more deeply at their business model to consider options
such as subscription services, repair and advice on caring for clothing. Companies
such as VF Corporation are seeking to address these challenges. Founded in 1899,
VF is one of the world’s largest apparel, footwear and accessories companies,
incorporating over 30 brands such as North Face. Their sustainability mission is to
protect our outdoor playgrounds and communities through the design and development of environmentally and socially responsible products and business practices. Through Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) they have determined that the
majority of their environmental impact comes from materials processing, and
product manufacturing. The North Face is now shifting the business away from
finite materials, eliminating supply chain waste and developing closed loop solutions for post-consumer waste.
62
K. James and J. Lings
toxicity footprint of Swedish Clothing Consumption [2]. Many environmental
organizations have reported on the damage caused by dyeing and finishing of
textiles, both humans and the environment. In addition, the use of pesticides in
cotton production accounts for 25% of global pesticide use, despite the crop
occupying only 2% of agricultural land. Roos et al. attempted to compare the
toxicity impact of these three different stages. As part of the research Roos et al.
identified only 7 out of 58 LCA studies focussed on textiles had included textile
chemicals in the inventory, and of these only 4 studies had also developed LCIA to
match these flows. It was therefore necessary to create additional inventories and
develop characterisation factors. Characterisation factors are complex to develop; a
data source selection strategy is recommended in order to keep consistency. The
factors developed were combined with data on Swedish clothing consumption. The
results suggest that eco-toxicity associated with wet treatment (dyeing and finishing) was one order of magnitude higher than for the cotton cultivation (all toxicity
in the fibre production stems from cotton cultivation). This shows the value of Life
Cycle Management and the need to understand life cycle stages to address priority
issues.
2 Framing and Responding to the Challenge
The challenges may be framed and addressed in terms of a number of initiatives,
such as the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, the European
Commission’s Circular Economy Package, Product Environmental Footprint
Initiative, and EU Garment Initiative, as well as Action Plans led by National
Governments and Industry Associations.
Within each of these frameworks, different options are open to businesses across
the clothing value chain. A key challenge is selecting the right strategy for the
business, their products and their customers: they may consider increased durability, recyclability, or look more deeply at their business model to consider options
such as subscription services, repair and advice on caring for clothing. Companies
such as VF Corporation are seeking to address these challenges. Founded in 1899,
VF is one of the world’s largest apparel, footwear and accessories companies,
incorporating over 30 brands such as North Face. Their sustainability mission is to
protect our outdoor playgrounds and communities through the design and development of environmentally and socially responsible products and business practices. Through Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) they have determined that the
majority of their environmental impact comes from materials processing, and
product manufacturing. The North Face is now shifting the business away from
finite materials, eliminating supply chain waste and developing closed loop solutions for post-consumer waste.
62
K. James and J. Lings