precisely in the experimental process. There are two experimental processes in this research, namely,
to adopt the manufacturing process in the zero-waste fashion design method and implement engineered print with the help of digital software in generating zero-waste fashion patterns. The result
of this research is the evaluation and conclusion of the research and fashion prototype.
1.1 Zero waste fashion design
In the fashion industry, two types of waste are produced in the process of producing a garment. First
is waste produced by industry, and second is waste produced by consumers. Zero waste fashion
design focuses on reducing waste generated during the production process of textile materials
and products, also known as pre-consumption waste (Mcquillan 2011). The integration of pattern
cutting techniques in the zero-waste concept can optimize the design process. In addition to pattern
cutting techniques, there are alternative other techniques that can be applied to produce clothing
without pre-consumption waste such as digital printing and draping techniques. The application of
the concept of zero waste has been and unwittingly, practiced in traditional clothing in the world
(Rissanen & Mcquillan 2016). The limitation of raw materials and the prolonged fabric production
process made people in the past more respectful of material to make clothes so that in every process
of making clothes, the material was used entirely without residue.
The practice of zero-waste fashion design methods starts from various forms of traditional clothing. One of the applications of zero-waste fashion design is seen in the form of traditional clothing
in Indonesia that utilizes basic geometric shapes in its clothing patterns. Geometric shapes used
are generally square, because the fabric material for clothing is made by weaving or felting techniques so that the dimensions of the material produced depend on the size of the loom. Due to
the time-consuming and challenging process of making materials, traditional communities will try
to optimize the materials available for fashion. Furthermore, because of this tendency, generally,
clothing that has passed its lifetime will be reconstructed so that it can extend the wear life of the
clothing. The application of the zero-waste fashion design concept seen no change in the optimization of material dimension. However, the resulting clothing designs can be adapted to the tastes,
functions, and needs of modern society for fashion at this time. The technique used has evolved and
not only focused on the process of utilizing geometric shapes to create clothing patterns but was
more explorative with variations in the shape of the design lines and motifs on the material used.
1.2 Garment production
There are two different categories in the production process of garment, namely ready-to-wear
garments and those according to specific sizes and orders. Some factors that distinguish between
the two categories are the stages in the process of clothing production, the process of design
considerations, and consideration of the ability to be mass-produced (Onuma 2009).
In the process of producing ready-to-wear clothing or known as ready-to-wear, design considerations that do not only refer to the public who are consumers but need consider several factors
such as function, price of production, purchasing power, and sustainability. However, this does
not make the ready-to-wear process more time consuming than individual clothing. Due to the
dynamic fashion trends, the ready-to-wear fashion industry is more active in producing clothing
with different designs. The production process carried out in ready-made clothing can be said to
be more modern than clothing for individuals.
Material knowledge is not only limited to the type but can include how the material is following
the function of the clothes designed. Making fashion patterns, still through the process of prototyping or making samples of clothing, but at the time the embodiment was carried out on an
industrial scale. Furthermore, the process of quality control or inspection of the final product is an
important step to ensure product quality.
1.3 Engineered print
Engineered printing is one of the engineering techniques that developed along with the development
of computer technology and the fashion production process. The engineered printing technique is
173
to adopt the manufacturing process in the zero-waste fashion design method and implement engineered print with the help of digital software in generating zero-waste fashion patterns. The result
of this research is the evaluation and conclusion of the research and fashion prototype.
1.1 Zero waste fashion design
In the fashion industry, two types of waste are produced in the process of producing a garment. First
is waste produced by industry, and second is waste produced by consumers. Zero waste fashion
design focuses on reducing waste generated during the production process of textile materials
and products, also known as pre-consumption waste (Mcquillan 2011). The integration of pattern
cutting techniques in the zero-waste concept can optimize the design process. In addition to pattern
cutting techniques, there are alternative other techniques that can be applied to produce clothing
without pre-consumption waste such as digital printing and draping techniques. The application of
the concept of zero waste has been and unwittingly, practiced in traditional clothing in the world
(Rissanen & Mcquillan 2016). The limitation of raw materials and the prolonged fabric production
process made people in the past more respectful of material to make clothes so that in every process
of making clothes, the material was used entirely without residue.
The practice of zero-waste fashion design methods starts from various forms of traditional clothing. One of the applications of zero-waste fashion design is seen in the form of traditional clothing
in Indonesia that utilizes basic geometric shapes in its clothing patterns. Geometric shapes used
are generally square, because the fabric material for clothing is made by weaving or felting techniques so that the dimensions of the material produced depend on the size of the loom. Due to
the time-consuming and challenging process of making materials, traditional communities will try
to optimize the materials available for fashion. Furthermore, because of this tendency, generally,
clothing that has passed its lifetime will be reconstructed so that it can extend the wear life of the
clothing. The application of the zero-waste fashion design concept seen no change in the optimization of material dimension. However, the resulting clothing designs can be adapted to the tastes,
functions, and needs of modern society for fashion at this time. The technique used has evolved and
not only focused on the process of utilizing geometric shapes to create clothing patterns but was
more explorative with variations in the shape of the design lines and motifs on the material used.
1.2 Garment production
There are two different categories in the production process of garment, namely ready-to-wear
garments and those according to specific sizes and orders. Some factors that distinguish between
the two categories are the stages in the process of clothing production, the process of design
considerations, and consideration of the ability to be mass-produced (Onuma 2009).
In the process of producing ready-to-wear clothing or known as ready-to-wear, design considerations that do not only refer to the public who are consumers but need consider several factors
such as function, price of production, purchasing power, and sustainability. However, this does
not make the ready-to-wear process more time consuming than individual clothing. Due to the
dynamic fashion trends, the ready-to-wear fashion industry is more active in producing clothing
with different designs. The production process carried out in ready-made clothing can be said to
be more modern than clothing for individuals.
Material knowledge is not only limited to the type but can include how the material is following
the function of the clothes designed. Making fashion patterns, still through the process of prototyping or making samples of clothing, but at the time the embodiment was carried out on an
industrial scale. Furthermore, the process of quality control or inspection of the final product is an
important step to ensure product quality.
1.3 Engineered print
Engineered printing is one of the engineering techniques that developed along with the development
of computer technology and the fashion production process. The engineered printing technique is
173