C hapter 10 nanomaterial product Forms and Functions
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achieved by relatively straightforward surface treatments, as is the
case in some makeups and antiwrinkle formulations. In other cases,
targets are much deeper and can even have pharmaceutical intents.
Others inherently involve interactions with other environmental
factors (UV light in relation to sunscreens). Whether time delays
are important or not varies.
Always of paramount concern are the types of active ingredients
used, their intensity levels, and whether they can inadvertently
cause adverse safety or health issues. Kinds of ingredient/body
interactions that can occur are a subject of intense study. Products should be tested for many factors. Receptivity to skin irritation varies among groups within the population as a function of
many human factors, such as age, that are in turn scientifically
understood in terms of keratinization levels and other skin characteristics. Allergic reactions are possible, and conventional cosmetics have long been studied and addressed from this perspective
(witness the many products with “hypoallergenic” labels). Various
testing means, including the older patch test, are still in common
use to test for these reactions. Other formulations that depend on
interactions with environmental factors demand different kinds of
tests for specific problems, such as reactions induced by interactions with ultraviolet light. The potential for microbial growth in
applied cosmetics may seem initially surprising, but many are water
based, some quick thick, and applied to warm skin. Depending on
the cosmetic, various additives might be needed to prevent the
growth of microbes. Others can have inherent antibacterial actions.
The potential for other kinds of adverse health effects associated
with the deeper penetration of skin layers by tiny nanoparticles is
also a concern to both industry and advocacy groups. This general
area of concern is by no means unstudied, and some controversies
surround it. A relatively few limited-scope studies with varying
methodologies have yielded conflicting conclusions for different
groups. Caution in these matters is always a watchword. We deal
with this issue in more depth in Chapter 11.
In summary, the field of cosmetics is an extremely complex and
sophisticated one. The field is not only about adornment that is
a basic human need and action that must be respected; it also
encompasses formulations that can have powerful protective and
rehabilitation functions as well. Opportunities for using nanomaterials as active agents and carriers abound and can potentially
lead to improved efficacies. Since these products come into bodily
contact, special care must be exercised to assure that no adverse
effects occur.
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