cutting of the pattern pieces of the outfit from the fabric, with
prior knowledge of the fabric dimensions to execute the
intended plan successfully. The zero-waste technique reduces not just the textile waste generated, but also the use of
resources in generating those textiles. Though this concept is
not new and has been used traditionally in many cultures
(such as Japanese and Indian draped garments), the recent
over-production, as well as easy and affordable accessibility
of textiles, has given priority to the speed of manufacture
without the justifiable use of materials.
2.2 Upcycling and Reconstruction
WRAP compliance has found that an estimated £140 million
worth (350,000 tons) of used clothing goes to landfill in the
UK every year (WRAP 2012). Extending or prolonging the
life of a garment can, therefore, go a long way in saving the
costs of resources used in clothing supply, laundry, and
disposal. Upcycling transforms used textiles into products of
equal or greater value, which prolongs their life, avoids
textile waste and reduces the need for new materials. It is
estimated that an extra nine months in the life of a clothing
item through active use by such methods would reduce the
carbon, waste, and water footprints by around 4–10% each
(WRAP 2017). Upcycling can be used as a vibrant method
for innovative creation, challenging the designers and giving
new life and value to materials destined for the landfill (Han
et al. 2017). It is a sustainable technique that leads to “chic”
and unique designs that appeal to socially conscious customers, and its application should be explored in fashion
design education through practical projects (DeLong et al.
2017).
A reconstruction is a form of upcycling post-consumer
waste that involves deconstructing existing designs and
reconstructing them into new desirable outfits with excellent
finishing. Through patterns or draping, the designers can
experiment without boundaries and contribute to prolonging
the life of clothes, even those that are damaged or out of
fashion (Brown 2013). Consumer behavior also plays a
major role in the proliferation of these sustainable practices
as an upcycled/recycled garment must be able to replace the
purchase of a new garment.
3 Integration of Sustainability Concepts
in Fashion Design Education
This practice-led study was conducted to explore the integration of sustainability concepts in a fashion design undergraduate program to produce contemporary, market-ready,
and viable products. The hands-on involvement of the students in the process from research to production is believed to
be more valuable and effective than teaching the same concepts theoretically in class.
The project was undertaken with third-year undergraduate
students of Fashion Design at the College of Design at
American University in the Emirates in Dubai, United Arab
Emirates. The Fashion Design program at the college comprises 126 credit hours including general, core, elective, and
specialization courses. The specialization courses cover
fashion subjects such as patternmaking, draping, history of
costume, textiles, CAD, merchandising, etc. The students
undertake various studio and field projects during the courses to gain practical experience in addition to theoretical
knowledge. The involvement of the students in external
design competitions (local and international) and the
resulting effect on their learning was explored earlier by the
researcher in a previous study (Agarwal 2017).
The current study aims to create awareness, build
knowledge, enhance creativity, and hone the construction
skills of students to create designers of the future who are
well-equipped to enter the industry and promote sustainable
behavior in their local and global community. This ESD
model of education will help create graduates who will lead
the transformation by pursuing sustainability not just as an
ideology, but with practical application.
The students were briefed about the above-mentioned
three techniques used by fashion designers to reduce textile
waste. They conducted research on sustainability in the
fashion industry in addition to identifying sources of textiles
that could be used for upcycling and reconstruction.
3.1 Project 1
The collection titled “Farfalla” (Italian name for butterfly)
follows the theme of the butterfly. Each of the three outfits
represents a stage in the life cycle from the cocoon to the
metamorphosis of the adult butterfly. The designs were
created using pre-owned textiles/garments that were deconstructed and recreated into fashionable garments with
high-quality finish.
Analysis of sustainable practice and design: The concept
was aptly represented through this textured and layered
garment with varied color patterns. In line with the sustainable concepts of upcycling and reconstruction, each used
garment was disassembled by opening the seams, and the
component parts were used as fresh textiles for the design. In
this way, all the sustainable practices were strictly adhered to
and the value enhancement was done through the application
of Swarovski crystals and beads on the pants (Table 1).
Experimental Sustainable Practices in Fashion Education
97
prior knowledge of the fabric dimensions to execute the
intended plan successfully. The zero-waste technique reduces not just the textile waste generated, but also the use of
resources in generating those textiles. Though this concept is
not new and has been used traditionally in many cultures
(such as Japanese and Indian draped garments), the recent
over-production, as well as easy and affordable accessibility
of textiles, has given priority to the speed of manufacture
without the justifiable use of materials.
2.2 Upcycling and Reconstruction
WRAP compliance has found that an estimated £140 million
worth (350,000 tons) of used clothing goes to landfill in the
UK every year (WRAP 2012). Extending or prolonging the
life of a garment can, therefore, go a long way in saving the
costs of resources used in clothing supply, laundry, and
disposal. Upcycling transforms used textiles into products of
equal or greater value, which prolongs their life, avoids
textile waste and reduces the need for new materials. It is
estimated that an extra nine months in the life of a clothing
item through active use by such methods would reduce the
carbon, waste, and water footprints by around 4–10% each
(WRAP 2017). Upcycling can be used as a vibrant method
for innovative creation, challenging the designers and giving
new life and value to materials destined for the landfill (Han
et al. 2017). It is a sustainable technique that leads to “chic”
and unique designs that appeal to socially conscious customers, and its application should be explored in fashion
design education through practical projects (DeLong et al.
2017).
A reconstruction is a form of upcycling post-consumer
waste that involves deconstructing existing designs and
reconstructing them into new desirable outfits with excellent
finishing. Through patterns or draping, the designers can
experiment without boundaries and contribute to prolonging
the life of clothes, even those that are damaged or out of
fashion (Brown 2013). Consumer behavior also plays a
major role in the proliferation of these sustainable practices
as an upcycled/recycled garment must be able to replace the
purchase of a new garment.
3 Integration of Sustainability Concepts
in Fashion Design Education
This practice-led study was conducted to explore the integration of sustainability concepts in a fashion design undergraduate program to produce contemporary, market-ready,
and viable products. The hands-on involvement of the students in the process from research to production is believed to
be more valuable and effective than teaching the same concepts theoretically in class.
The project was undertaken with third-year undergraduate
students of Fashion Design at the College of Design at
American University in the Emirates in Dubai, United Arab
Emirates. The Fashion Design program at the college comprises 126 credit hours including general, core, elective, and
specialization courses. The specialization courses cover
fashion subjects such as patternmaking, draping, history of
costume, textiles, CAD, merchandising, etc. The students
undertake various studio and field projects during the courses to gain practical experience in addition to theoretical
knowledge. The involvement of the students in external
design competitions (local and international) and the
resulting effect on their learning was explored earlier by the
researcher in a previous study (Agarwal 2017).
The current study aims to create awareness, build
knowledge, enhance creativity, and hone the construction
skills of students to create designers of the future who are
well-equipped to enter the industry and promote sustainable
behavior in their local and global community. This ESD
model of education will help create graduates who will lead
the transformation by pursuing sustainability not just as an
ideology, but with practical application.
The students were briefed about the above-mentioned
three techniques used by fashion designers to reduce textile
waste. They conducted research on sustainability in the
fashion industry in addition to identifying sources of textiles
that could be used for upcycling and reconstruction.
3.1 Project 1
The collection titled “Farfalla” (Italian name for butterfly)
follows the theme of the butterfly. Each of the three outfits
represents a stage in the life cycle from the cocoon to the
metamorphosis of the adult butterfly. The designs were
created using pre-owned textiles/garments that were deconstructed and recreated into fashionable garments with
high-quality finish.
Analysis of sustainable practice and design: The concept
was aptly represented through this textured and layered
garment with varied color patterns. In line with the sustainable concepts of upcycling and reconstruction, each used
garment was disassembled by opening the seams, and the
component parts were used as fresh textiles for the design. In
this way, all the sustainable practices were strictly adhered to
and the value enhancement was done through the application
of Swarovski crystals and beads on the pants (Table 1).
Experimental Sustainable Practices in Fashion Education
97